Want to increase my 1980s house from a BER C3 to B3

T

TheSnowman

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In recent years I have installed a modern gas stove with works at about 82% efficiency instead of old open gas fireplace of about 15% efficiency.
I have also had a porche built. I am planning to replace about 40 old spotlights with LEDs and also replace the one single pane window with double glazing.

Can anyone hazard a guess on how all this will improve my BER rating?
 
Am very surprised you had as good as C3 with an open fireplace and single-glazed windows.

My experience (90s house):
  • Replacing all wooden-frame single-glazed windows with alu-clad double-glazed with a u-value of 1.38
  • Replacement of 20-year old boiler (not sure about efficiencies)
  • Replacing bulbs with LEDs
BER only went from a D2 to a D1.

Actual energy use seemed to fall a bit more than the BER improvement.
 
Thanks for the feedback . I have just one single glazed window. I had an attic insulation job done but the C3 cert was taking just after that.
 
There is quite a complex calculator the assessors use to arrive at a new BER rating. It is very difficult to say what improvements will increase your rating. Some may not increase it at all as the overall calculated figure may not improve that much.

We have done significant work on our place since we bought it and had two assessments done.

external insulation, upgraded gas boiler and triple glazing got us from a D3 to a B3. Usual recommendations in report for improvement such as close in fireplace, build porch etc.

Spray foam attic insulation and solar panel installation took us up only to a B2. This investment was significant but we only went up one rating.

you need to weigh up the costs associated with the remedies required. They may not always pay back the investment.
 
You need to look at the actual values also in addition to the band. For e.g. our house is currently B2 but is 101.97kWh/m2/yr. The B2 band is >100 so we would very easily move into the B1 band. It could work the other way, where you've just scraped into the current band and would need a decent saving to move up one.
 
Alkers86 said:
You need to look at the actual values also in addition to the band. For e.g. our house is currently B2 but is 101.97kWh/m2/yr. The B2 band is >100 so we would very easily move into the B1 band. It could work the other way, where you've just scraped into the current band and would need a decent saving to move up one.
Click to expand...

This is true, even after some effort I am still 1 kWh/m2/yr away from moving from a D1 to a C3. The BER surveyor (to his credit) wouldn't budge on this.

In theory the actual consumption matters, but a potential buyer or renter will probably only look at the band.
 
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