Time of year to spray roundup?

As far as I know all you need is the weed's to be dry and it not to rain for a few hours after spraying them.
In my opinion I'd doubt they'd be dry enough at this time of the year. I'd wait another few weeks anyhow
 
Might not be the best time to spray as the ground is very damp and would dilute the effectiveness of the Round Up and it is also not advisable to spray in windy conditions as other plants could be murdered in the process.
 
Make sure that you are wearing mouth and nose protection as the fumes which are omitted are quite toxic. You will get a better job done, if there are a few days remaining dry after you spray.
 
It is at its most effective if you spray when the plant is in growth phase. Probably another few weeks. What are you trying to get rid of? (If docks, then wait until they have a 'cabbage-like' appearance, this is when they are starting to grow and they will then take the poison right down to the root).
 
Thanks for the replies, I'll wait a couple of weeks, I have docks and scotch grass, driving me mad for a couple of years. I want to get it sorted once and for all and given the price of roundup, I only want to do it once.
 
I want to get in early potatoes, so the earlier I can spray the better. Im getting early growth in the garden now, but the ground is very wet.
 
Hi,

Generally you can spray roundup in January then again say April and again in Autumn. But only if it is a calm day. I'm afraid you won't get away with spraying roundup once. I have a large garden for the last 15 years and I have found spraying at around those times every year eventually the amount of weeds will die down but there will always be the odd few. If you are planting potatoes around mid march spray in plenty of time before this.

Angela59
 
angela59 said:
Generally you can spray roundup in January then again say April and again in Autumn.Angela59
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If you are spraying the same area 3 times per year, then there is something wrong. Roundup is an expensive weed killer. For that amount of spraying you would be better using a cheaper less toxic spray.
 
mercman said:
If you are spraying the same area 3 times per year, then there is something wrong. Roundup is an expensive weed killer. For that amount of spraying you would be better using a cheaper less toxic spray.
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Like what? Round up (Glyphosate) is one of the cheapest and safest herbicides on the market. Its certainly what I would consider to be the best product to use. If you have a fair bit of area to spray try buying it from a farm coop as garden centres tend to charge way more! If you ask for glyphosate rather than round up you will prob get a cheaper generic product. It'll do the same thing but save you a few quid.

Round up tends to work all year round. You will find it will act much slower in winter though. Ideally you want a period of good growth to get best results as the product is translocated to the roots of perennial plants (like docks). Generally you need a few hours dry after application, certain versions of the product are rainsafe after shorter periods than others depending on what adjuvants are used.
 
Best time is NO TIME! There is mounting evidence that it could be dangerous to human and animal health and the environment. Read on...
This is information I found from reputable sources on the internet - but why not check them out yourself... a few weeds have got to be better than this.

In the late 1990s, a Swedish study published in the journal Cancer revealed links between glyphosate exposure and the development of non-Hodgkin's lymphoma, a form of cancer. Scientists warned then that with the rapidly increasing use of glyphosate the rate of this otherwise rare cancer could also increase.

More recently a group of scientists from the University of Caen, in France, found that human placental cells are very sensitive to Roundup at concentrations lower than those currently used in agricultural applications. The study of Ontario farming populations showed that exposure to glyphosate nearly doubled the risk of late miscarriages. It also found that the ethoxylated surfactant used in the Roundup formulation studied doubled the toxic effect of the glyphosate.

In 2002, French scientists found that Roundup activates one of the key stages of cellular division that can potentially lead to cancer. There is also research that shows that even brief exposure to glyphosate causes liver damage in rats. The research indicated that glyphosate acted in synergy with the surfactant used in Roundup to increase damage to the liver.

The label of Fast Action Roundup weedkiller claims it biodegrades leaving no soil residues. What actually happens is that glyphosate attaches itself, rather like a magnet, to minerals in the soil and remains more or less in situ until the soil is moved – by heavy rain, for instance. That is when the glyphosate can move into water supplies and have a more widespread environmental impact.

In April 2005, work by scientists at the University of Pittsburgh, US, suggested that Roundup is lethal to lifeforms other than plants – in this case amphibians. In an extensive study on the effects of pesticides on these 'non-target' organisms in a natural setting, the researchers found that Roundup caused a 70 per cent decline in amphibian biodiversity and an 86 per cent decline in the total mass of tadpoles. Leopard frog tadpoles and gray tree frog tadpoles were nearly eliminated by exposure to the herbicide.
 
Hi mercman,

Can't say I get your point - I have an acre of land around house and I will say over the years the weeds generally die down with repeated spraying annually but one spay will not kill growth it will come back again - I'm talking about shurberies were you have exposed clay. If you spay roundup on grass it will kill if off but in my opinon where there is a soil area it will not remain weed free for longer that 3 to 4 months especially if there is moisture and heat. What I found to be very effective is laying breathable plastic around the shrubberies and the a couple of inches of stones and this certainly keeps down the weeds.

Angela59
 
I am very much allergic to Roundup from overexposure to it as a child (Living near a farm). It is banned in and around high population areas in North America...EEkoGirl's point, while off the thread is informative...even if you spray it is better to realize that this stuff is dangerous so dont let the kiddies around the garden or field for a number of days after spray...

You can also try this eco spray...(it works!)

4 cups vinegar (pickling is best)
1/2 cup salt
2 tsp dish soap
 
I have a client who own a herbicide factory / distribution center so I can get it at the right price.

The area I have to spray is about an acre. Up to two years ago I grew potatoes, root veg and shrubs. Then we put in a new septic tank, and started a large extension. As a result the garden has gone a little out of control. If I dont get the grass and docs killed off early enough, I will lose the motivation to get a crop in this year.

I dont mind what herbicide I use so long as its effective.

The americans might have banned roundup, but they still put hormones in their beef!

So pardon me if I dont follow the american example.
 
computerman said:
I have a client who own a herbicide factory / distribution center so I can get it at the right price.

The area I have to spray is about an acre. Up to two years ago I grew potatoes, root veg and shrubs. Then we put in a new septic tank, and started a large extension. As a result the garden has gone a little out of control. If I dont get the grass and docs killed off early enough, I will lose the motivation to get a crop in this year.

I dont mind what herbicide I use so long as its effective.

The americans might have banned roundup, but they still put hormones in their beef!

So pardon me if I dont follow the american example.
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If you want to grow spuds, I would do without the Roundup. Why? First, you don't want to poison yourself. Second, spuds are excellent for 'clearing' ground - think about it - when you harvest your spuds you're essentially digging over the entire plot, so you can remove any dock roots at the same time - the dock roots go down very far but no further than the depth of the deepest potato tubers, so it's a perfect organic solution. Plus, the growing potato plants will shade out the docks and all other competing weeds, meaning that the dock roots will be significantly weakened come potato harvest time, so they'll be even easier to dig out.
 
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