Solid wood floor - cracking noise

Contact your retailer. You bought the wood from them. And more importantly, they recommended the installer.

In what way has the wood shrunk at the front door?

Marion
 
i would not have used elastion,i have yet to meet a wood floor installer who likes this product. the best way to install solid 3/4 inch flooring is to nail it to a plywood sub-floor. the plywood sub-floor should be nailed and glued to concrete slab. this system shall work perfectly every time. floor failure as in this case should have been avoided since it was a new build and a plywood sub-floor could have been installed. i would call elastion and your installer.
 
this system shall work perfectly every time

... assuming that the installer does their job correctly and that there is no inherent problem with the wood.

Why would you nail and glue the plywood to the concrete slab? Did you mean one or the other?

Marion
 
installing a plywood sub-floor correctly is not a hard job. nailing the plywood sub-floor is not sufficent to get the desired results it must also be glued. the plywood should be lifted up after first contact with the glue as this shall stop the glue from pancaking.
 
Any other posters put down solid oak with elastilion.

I installed a good bit of solid wooden floor with Elastilon and never had any problem afterwards.

If you do a search for Elastilon, you will get few posts talking about the subject.
 
i would not have used elastion,i have yet to meet a wood floor installer who likes this product. the best way to install solid 3/4 inch flooring is to nail it to a plywood sub-floor. the plywood sub-floor should be nailed and glued to concrete slab. this system shall work perfectly every time. floor failure as in this case should have been avoided since it was a new build and a plywood sub-floor could have been installed. i would call elastion and your installer.

I had this done when my wooden floors were installed by a reputable installer and had many problems with creaking and "cracking". Complained to installer and eventually agreed major discount on price - ended up getting installation free and wood for half price. Installer spent 3 months telling me that creaking and cracking was normal - wasn't until I threathened legal action that he negotiated.
 
installing a plywood sub-floor correctly is not a hard job. nailing the plywood sub-floor is not sufficent to get the desired results it must also be glued. the plywood should be lifted up after first contact with the glue as this shall stop the glue from pancaking.

Use 15 6x60 express nails per 8x4 sheet ply. If you put a vapour barrier down under the ply you can't use the glue.
 
I rang the installer, he said he'd never heard of this particular floor cracking and creaking and to call the wood supplier. And let him know how I get on!
 
Did the installer come recommended from the person you bought the floor from? Are they in any way attached to this supplier or are they independant?
 
Did the installer come recommended from the person you bought the floor from? Are they in any way attached to this supplier or are they independant?

The supplier gave a list of installers but the sheet had a disclaimer saying that whilst they give out this list of installers, they do not stand over the workmanship - I'm paraphrasing here
 
So I imagine the supplier will back up his product and the installer will back up his workmanship....it's a situation I was fearful of, we recently put a deposit on flooring but the clincher on who to go with came down to the fact that only one supllier offered a guaranteed fitting service (what exactly they guarantee I am unsure..), the others, like yours, offered recommendations....It will be interesting to see what your supplier has to say about it all....Good luck, I have a feeling you may need it :(
 
Me thinks so too. at the end of the day, the floor is down now so we'll have to find a way to sort it out.

Maybe its my imagination but during the day I think the floor doesnt make as much noise as it does in the evening time. Central heating is on 5.30pm to 9.30pm, I wonder does the heat make the wood move more, therefore more noisy? Although we are creeping around at night so as not to wake the kids and maybe that makes it sound worse at night? Or maybe its all in my head:)
 
Sorry I didnt' read this when asking about the number of dips. You really must try the talc and have the installer back to fix the bouncy spots by some means.

With the best of intentions an installer can leave one or two creaks in a floor no matter what the method of install, glue, nail etc.

I wonder is it a problem with the elastalion. Any other posters put down solid oak with elastilion.

Yip, I did back in 2004 when moving into a new house.
The good room and the family room.
The good room has been perfect to date.
I did have to use the talc powder trick on one spot in the family room.
Only one spot mind but it was just inside the door so it was annoying.
It worked!
(thought it was mad but sure tried it anyway - it worked for me).
 
How would you open the joints to allow talc powder in if they are glued?
The glue with the elastilion is on the underside of the boards so the joints are relatively free to move apart to allow the talc down.

If you have a floating floor where the tongue and grove are glued you really shouldn’t be having a squeaking noise and if you do try the talc anyhow (without upping the heat or using a dehumidifier) and you might get some relief.
 
yes mine is floating and the floors were not level. The cracking sound is just in these areas - i'll try the talc. what should I buy? Is it regular scented talc for bathroom use?
 
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