Solid Fuel Stove.

I am also interested in installing the Solid fuel Stanley Oisin, a friend of mine has one and the heat out of it is great. I do a small bit of DIY myself and I have asked a few people on installing it including shop assistants and it seems managable.
You can get a 8" to 6" fitting to connect to your chimney pot and then you need flue pipe to connect from the stove to the 90 degree bend and more flue pipe to connect from the bend to your reducer fitting in the chimney pot.
The quote I have received is €450 for stove about €120 for the accessories.

Has anyone installed a stove the way I described, would appreciate feedback on the pros and cons

Thanks
 
I have a Nestor Martin stove installed by myself for about 5 years and working fine. Stove retailer (who is also a wholesaler) said I didn't need a steel flue - reading the above it sounds like it should be. Opinions please?
 
Installing a stove - do i need a new flue?

Folks,

I would be very grateful for your advice.
I cleared out a gas fireplace and have bought a stanley oisin.
2 lenghts of enamal pipe/flue were supplied with the unit which fits into the existing flue by about an inch.

The stanley pipe/flue is 5" wheras the existing chimney flue is just over 8" in diameter. For this reason i will install a connector between the 2.

My question - do I need to install a new flexible flue all the way up the chimney. The official stanley distributor has said not necessary while someone chimney technicians online have advised fitting a flue with the same width as the stanley flue. The cost of getting 8m installed could cost up to a €800 so I woudl like to avoid if possible.

Thanks,
Donal
 
leex said:
I have a Nestor Martin stove installed by myself for about 5 years and working fine. Stove retailer (who is also a wholesaler) said I didn't need a steel flue - reading the above it sounds like it should be. Opinions please?
Click to expand...


as far as i know the flu which is inside the house can be a normal black flu (not sure if its enamel or steel) but then any parts of flu that are on the outside need to be twin insulated, the reason for this being so the flu does not heat up on the outside...

at least the above was how my plumber explained to us when he installed.
must say our stove is my favourite part of our house now
 
bizzy2 said:
Any idea of the current price of the Stanley Oisin enamel finish?
Click to expand...
I was quoted 899 Euro today for the Oisin enamel version, the matt black was quoted at 449 Euro. can anyone explain the price difference. I looked up the stanley web site and the enamel version is 899 Euro.
What is happening - I considered a possible 200 Euro price increase. but this is crazy...
 
briquettes said:
I was quoted 899 Euro today for the Oisin enamel version, the matt black was quoted at 449 Euro. can anyone explain the price difference. I looked up the stanley web site and the enamel version is 899 Euro.
What is happening - I considered a possible 200 Euro price increase. but this is crazy...
Click to expand...
It's been discussed previously.

This should help you decide.
 
serotoninsid said:
It's been discussed previously.

Am looking to fit an oisin stove too. I've my local stockist telling me I need the stove (€299 with ploughing match voucher), connection kit (€120 and fireback/fireplace blank (€80) + installation if I don't diy it.

Question is, do I need the fireback or is that just cosmetic? looks like the stove itself will sit nicely in front of the current ope. Any comments?

Thanks
Click to expand...
 
My understanding is that you need the fireback to be able to cope with the high burning temperatures.
 
connport said:
serotoninsid said:
It's been discussed previously.

Am looking to fit an oisin stove too. I've my local stockist telling me I need the stove (€299 with ploughing match voucher), connection kit (€120 and fireback/fireplace blank (€80) + installation if I don't diy it.

Question is, do I need the fireback or is that just cosmetic? looks like the stove itself will sit nicely in front of the current ope. Any comments?

Thanks
Click to expand...
fireback/fireplace blank
whats the difference here?

is stove an insert or free standing?
Click to expand...
 
I haven't read all the comments but my house was built with a 22inch open fire i think ! Due to 80% Of the heat going up the chimney we decided to get a stanley stove , 2nd smallest room heater. Removing most fire back wasnt that hard and i let the flue glue up nicely. Now i have a greater outer of heat at a lot cheaper cost :)
 
Just finixhed the same job:
Break out existing fireplace and install new stove and lining including cowl =€1000
Installed Clearview Vision 500 steel stove, matt black and extremely satisfied.we put in a new hearth and fireplace for approx €1400
Best of Luck.
 
Ours is a Mulberry from MD OSheas Ballincollig. Cost us 136 for the flue and the reducer. We got Classic fireplaces in Little Island to fit the stove for us when they fitted the fireplace, Arthur there - they also sell stoves at a similar price to MD O'Sheas. Paid 399 I think for the stove, can't remember the fitting cost but very little as he was installing the fireplace at the same time. Might be worth getting a price off them too for the whole lot. You may need a spinning cowl for the chimney too that cost us €83 in the co-op but it depends on the draft on your chimeny and wind etc. Wind was blowing down our chimney and blowing smoke into the room. They are great though and we wouldn't be without it.
 
[QUOTE

Am looking to fit an oisin stove too. I've my local stockist telling me I need the stove (€299 with ploughing match voucher), [/QUOTE]

Was the Oisin not exempted from the ploughing show vouchers?
 
Howdy folks,
Put in a stove last year, best thing we ever did. Anyway I did tons of research on installing them as there were some discrepancies on how to do this properly depending on who you talk to.

What you have to be aware of is that the temperature of the gasses from the stove are much higher than those from a normal fireplace. Also need to be aware that creosote and other gunk is created from the burning of woods and other fuels.

Another point to be aware of is that each stove is designed to work with a flue of a specific diameter for optimum performance. This is usually the diameter of the connection on the stove for the flue. The reason for this is that it creates a known rate of draught for the stove, I imagine.

After doing alot of reading I decided to not follow what alot of sales people are saying and just put in a short flue into the existing flue and pack it in or use adaptors to your old flu, I ran a single all flexi flue all the way down into the stove. Conencted at the top to the cowl and the chimney was then packed with vermiculite. This meant that I didnt have to worry about gunk building up in places I couldnt get at, and that I didnt have to worry about the existing flues condition.

There is alot of information on boards.ie about this as it has been discussed and explained to death there and I would advise anyone considering it to find the long thread about it. Its late and Im heading to bed in a minute so I dont have time at the moment to locate it.

The short of it is to use a liner from the stove to the cowl at the top of the chimney, this negates alot of messing about with adapters and short liners which in my opinion are asking for a chimney fire. Remember if the gunk in the chimney is allowed to build up it WILL eventually go on fire. I dont really care what the guy in the shop says, their job is to sell stoves, and they have little to no qualifications in this area.

Glukk with it.
 
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