Removing Skirting Boards

J

JJ1310

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Hi all,

Looking for advice on removing skirting boards which ideally I would like to reuse. Reason is I want to install a solid oak floor and would like to lay under the skirting boards. Have considered just using beading around the edge but think would look better under the skirting boards.

Have two ideas

1. Use screwdriver to start removing board and then gat claw bar behind and lever against wall and screwdriver

2. Use screwdriver and wooden wedges. Hammer down the wedges then to remove boards

Any advice , comments on the above

Thanks
 
What type of wall is the skirting attached to, plastered block, plaster-board with studded partition, other?
 
Not as easy as it seems.. very often the plasterboards will give before the skirting boards move. Try to lever against a batton as not to damage the plasterboard too much.
 
I am not sure to be honest. Think it may be plasterboard. Will find out soon enough if last post is true. Will try and lever against batons as mentioned. What do ya think of wooden wedge idea
 
JJ1310 said:
I am not sure to be honest. Think it may be plasterboard. Will find out soon enough if last post is true. Will try and lever against batons as mentioned. What do ya think of wooden wedge idea
Click to expand...

TBH, as long as the damage is below the top of the existing SB's then it will be hidden by the SB in their new higher position.

It is easy enough patch up BEHIND the SB
Try a 4" wide bolster' chisel
http://i17.ebayimg.com/02/i/000/8c/fe/1b16_2.JPG
 
Purchase a bolster chizzle and lever off a 2 by one piece of timber. You should get them out intack.
 
Thanks all. In the end worked very well with Bolster Chisel and Claw bar to help move Bolster along to where nails were. Broke a few but overall did very well. Got better as I went on because they are a few knacks that i figured out. Major hint, don't start at the end of the board move in a foot or two and get start with screwdriver till you can hammer down the chisel. If you start too near the ends the wood is more likely to crack the routered bit of the plank.

Thank again.

Jake
 
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