Nest Labs brings ‘intelligent’ thermostat to Irish market
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Thermostat: €219 inc VAT
Nest is giving everyone who buys a thermostat between September 18th -24th free installation (normally costs €120)
http://www.irishtimes.com/business/...elligent-thermostat-to-irish-market-1.1932209
Remind me again Dub what degree of control you are seeking to obtain with the GSM R/C switch.
I'm just trying to work out why you need the "extra" DP switch.
I literally just want to be able to switch the whole thing on and off. The reason for the second switch is that otherwise the heating can't be switched on without the GSM Switch being activated. The GSM Switch has no buttons or external controls for manual switching. What if I lose my phone or there is no cell coverage while I am in the house? -- I wouldn't be able to turn the heating on or off. So I need to be able to switch to "manual operation". (I'd love if I didn't need the second switch -- having quite some trouble sourcing a normal looking DPDT switch for mains voltage online ... any suggestions?).
should the GSM switch fail ... I'm assuming it will reset or return to default if it does, then at least you will have heat.
What's wrong with "the big red switch" for on/off when you're in the house?
Basically all the DPDT switch is doing is overiding the R/C switch, so you will have to remember to switch it out everytime you are going out and you want R/C of the heating. I fully understand where you are coming from re. no phone coverage, but that surely defeats the purpose of the GSM switch.
Just wire it so that the common and normally closed are in circuit so when it is off (at rest) the heat will be on, and should the GSM switch fail, and I'm assuming it will reset or return to default if it does, then at least you will have heat.
Also a single pole 2 way (change over) switch would do you, if you really want to be able overide the GSM switch, just run the live to the GSM switch and loop out to your SP (L1) switch and from that (common) out to your heat and , hey presto, manual overide.
I just feel that having to remember to switch it to "remote" when you go out somehow defeats the purpose of having the R/C option in the first place.
See my CRAP drawing,I didn't bother signing up, rushing, so its in some album or other.
http://imgur.com/a/r6rT9
PS. Just going out the door...........Even a single one way SW would do you, just put it across the common and the normally open of the GSM and mark it "MAN/REMOTE".
That makes total sense. For some reason it never occurred to me to use the GSM device's own two-way switching. I've shown the additional switch across NC and NO below but it's the same thing. That switch is closed for manual operation and open for remote operation. Does this look right? It certainly makes the switch wiring trivial compared to my earlier Rube Goldberg machine. Also I keep my proper isolation switch. And I can leave the whole thing GSM operated all the time (unless I need to switch to manual in case of loss of phone coverage while I'm in the house).
Fair enough. Switch would have to be faulty for it to be a problem but I'll wire it from CO to NO anyway.No, its not quite the same thing, in your drawing you are still relying on the relay contact from common to N/C and then through your switch to heat, whereas if you go across common to N/O (heat) with switch, then you are not dependant on relay contact.
But I don't think there's an alternative that doesn't have the GSM Switch always on, without any switch except the fuseboard tripswitch. Sounds dangerous. The way I'm proposing I can leave it switched to "remote" all the time and use text messaging even in the house. So it will effectively always be on remote, I won't have to switch when leaving.I still think it somewhat defeats the purpose to have to remember to switch over from manual to remote everytime you go out and want to have R/C.
The switch is rated for 10 amps. My heating is only a couple of pumps and some electronics -- I don't think it could be drawing anything remotely like a couple of kW, probably a small fraction of that. I don't know what the fuse rating is, but I'll check.BTW have you checked the load capacity of the R/C to make sure it can carry the load OK. Also what is the rating of the MCB/Fuse feeding the "big red switch" ?
The existing double pole heating system switch is wired a little more complicatedly than I was expecting. Here is it from outside and inside:
Schematically it looks like this (markings are taken from the switch itself, and shown in approximate positions). There are also similar neutral wires, omitted for clarity (2 "in" wires connected to a single terminal, 1 "out" wire separate):
I'm a bit confused about how there can be two "in" cables and a single "out". Is the "in" not the power supply from the fuse board?
I can wire my "outs" as originally planned, but I'm worried I'm misunderstanding something.
Wouldn't have been able to do it without the help on here, so thanks very much.Well done.
Well, I've finally done it. Just turned my heating on by text message for the first time. The arrangement isn't the prettiest for now, but I have plans to tidy it up:
GSM switch at upper right is wired across main heating switch at left. The switch hanging down from the grey wire switches between "manual" and "text message" control. The pair of light switches at centre are on the same backing box as the heating switch, so I can neaten things by replacing them with a triple, one of which will replace the hangy down switch. The GSM switch will have its cover put on and be mounted properly to the wall.
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