Post and Rail fence

[mohainle]

Dear all,

I am about to begin fencing my 1 and a half acre site. I wish to put down cylindrical wooden posts (treated). From each post I intend to attach sheep wire to the bottom, one strand of barb wire and atop that a strand of electric wire. Does this seem ok to make stock proof?

• How far apart should each post be?
• After what distance should a support post be placed?
• Is putting the electric fence atop the fence suitable or should I place it on stakes the far side of the fence? (I own that bit too so I don't need permission)
• Is it necessary to place concrete around the posts as I intend to sow a Copper Beech hedge asap adjoining the fence?
• What tools would make the job easier?

I know these are a lot of questions and any help would be greatly appreciated. My Dad who would normally advise isn't around any more to do so.
Regards,
Mohainle

 

[builder ed]

First of all do not put concrete around the posts this will only rot the posts in time. My suggestion is to go to a local sawmill or Farm supplies and source some fencing posts and some straining posts which are larger in circumference than the standard ones. Should only cost you €3 each or even less for large quantity. 50 metre roll of Sheep wire expect to pay €40 plus per roll. I would stay away from barbed wire and put 2 strands of plain wire on top. You can buy electric fence stays approx 12 inches long that screw to the back of the posts which will prevent cattle from leaning over the fence to nibble at your hedge. Four metres apart should be sufficient and if you have a very long run perhaps an extra straining post in the middle as well as the corners. Ask some of the local farmers if they have an hydraulic post driver which attaches to the back of a tractor or if they know of anyone else with one. Otherwise it will be a tough job with a sledge hammer. Good luck.

 

[Gtec]

Ask some of the local farmers if they have an hydraulic post driver which attaches to the back of a tractor or if they know of anyone else with one.

Alternatively get a post hole digger and post driver from your local tool hire.

I have tried to do this with a sledge and can assure you that you will split a number of the stakes, When I did a similar job around an acre I hired the two items above and myself and one other did the job in a day. The hire price was €30 for the day I think, much less tough on your body then swinging a sledge for a day, but still hard enough work.

In terms of spacing, look at a few farmers fields and see what spacing they have used. in terms of bracing the corners, look at the section on bracing in here:[broken link removed]

Also I found that when putting single strand wire in I biought small ratche tensioners which make the job much easier.

Good luck with it

Gtec

Good luck

 

[Sconhome]

My suggestion would be to speak to your local Farm Relief Services as they pool resources and would have farm fencing as a contracting operation. You may find that you could strike a deal where you supply the materials and they supply the equipment and manpower. You can also work along side to reduce the labour costs.

It will be the easiest way to get what you want done without tying you up for weeks with machinery hire to do the job.

What you say re methodology is right. I would recommend burying the bottom of the sheep wire 6" into the ground to prevent animals breaking out or dogs getting in. Normal spacing would be 6' to 8' depending on the length of the runs and the lie of the land.

 

[mohainle]

That's all great advice. I'll loOk into it all and report back.
Thanks again,
Mohainle

 

[pbergin]

I tried farm relief and it was expensive, when digging our the site the first thing I asked the digger driver to do was drive down the posts. He did a great job, at the start I put 3 strands of razor wire, since then I have added chain link and 1 strand of electric wire on 12" extenders, it is doing an ok job but there are some big cattle in the field besde us that can just about get their heads over.