Pipes are frozen, tank is empty, can I use the heating?

Leo said:
Good to hear that last bit :)

The HWC fills from the bottom, drains from the top. When you open a hot tap, the pressure from the cold feed atthe bottom forces hot water out the top of the tank. Ideal really as the water at the top is the hottest within the tank. Where dual coil immersion elements are used, the shorter 'sink' coil only heats the top portion of the tank.
Leo
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Hi.
Just to keep the discussion going , would it be correct to say that with prolonged use of the heating AND an empty attic tank the water in the cylinder would eventually evaporate resulting in damage to the cylinder ?
w200
 
SparkRite said:
ONQ you're not stopping to think about this......

As water is drawn from the HWC it is (normally) forced out by the driving water from the header tank.
The amount drawn off equals the amount "gravity fed" in. Therefore, remove the "driving force" (by whatever means) and no water will flow through the HWC ie. it remains full, no matter how many taps are open.
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Sparkrite, you're correct.

I wasn't thinking it through, but Leo and you have clarifed the position.

Once the level of the water in the supply pipe from the attic reaches the level of the outlet in the tank no more can flow out.

Thanks.

ONQ.
 
Dirac, thanks for that. We are actually on the mains supply not a pump system so not sure if any of that applies to me. I can't even get in attic to see tank etc as I need a set of ladders and hubby is away!! I'm afraid I'll get in more trouble if I try to go up there!
 
W200 said:
Hi.
Just to keep the discussion going , would it be correct to say that with prolonged use of the heating AND an empty attic tank the water in the cylinder would eventually evaporate resulting in damage to the cylinder ?
w200
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No damage would be done to cylinder. the only problem that may occur is if a house has leaks that have went unnoticed as the header tank (small tank) in attic normally refilled itself. After a prolonged absence of water, the heating system may become empty, even then stat at boiler would shut it done before any real damage could occur, real damage being a burnt out pump.

Oh and Sorry ONQ for the short answer last night, I finished work at 11pm, If I never see another frozen/burst pipe it will be too soon.
 
DavyJones said:
No damage would be done to cylinder. the only problem that may occur is if a house has leaks that have went unnoticed as the header tank (small tank) in attic normally refilled itself. After a prolonged absence of water, the heating system may become empty, even then stat at boiler would shut it done before any real damage could occur, real damage being a burnt out pump.

Oh and Sorry ONQ for the short answer last night, I finished work at 11pm, If I never see another frozen/burst pipe it will be too soon.
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Thanks DavyJones for confirming that and for all the replies. Just had the plumber on and he said as long as the pipes on the boiler aren't frozen it should be fine and he installed it so yipee, I'm off to turn on the heat!!

All I need now is water!
 
onq said:
Nice to learn something again.

I say again because I'm sure I discussed this with someone before [a plumber no doubt] and knew it, but forgot it.

Thanks Leo.

ONQ.
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No problem ONQ.
Everyday is a schoolday.:)
 
onq said:
I presume there is some sort of valve at the base ot drain it off it work is necessary on the tank.
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No prob ONQ, like to feel like I know something every now and then :D

Yes, there will be a drain-off point at the bottom of the tank.
Leo
 
Hi,

I believe I am in a similar situation - Stopcock from the mains is no more than a ft down and no water from the mains at entry point under the kitchen sink.

Distance of approx 7metres from stopcock to the entry point to the house - is there any way to thaw out this pipe?

Heating has been working but is there a risk of doing damage from this? OFCH by the way.

Thanks in advance,
C
 
W200 said:
Hi.
Just to keep the discussion going , would it be correct to say that with prolonged use of the heating AND an empty attic tank the water in the cylinder would eventually evaporate resulting in damage to the cylinder ?
w200
Click to expand...

Not at all. I have just this scenario running here and has been for the past several months. The hot cylinder (a temporary installation, not needed for the main residence) sprung a leak and I drained it. The CH has been running the cylinder coil in an empty tank for ages with no detriment. What you mustn't do is accidentally switch on the immersion heater, of course.
 
Hi Guys, just one thing to add, once your heating is running, it can be helpful to partially open the attic door to allow some warm air to circulate and prevent the pipes up there from freezing as no water will be flowing
(I know mine has been open since I lost water!)
 
Petit said:
Villa 1, I think you hit the nail on the head, Bob the builder did not put them down far enough hence our problem. Still not heard from plumber!
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Did you ever find out if you could use the oil heating in the end?
 
onq said:
How do you know the HWC has water in it?

ONQ.
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The primary system for the rads and hot water does not empty unless specifically drained, it is a different header tank to the hot water tank or a sealed recirculating system
 
Cynic that I am, I wondered how many of the original contributors to this thread are now deceased... :oops:
 
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