Painting- How to get a good finish when cutting in?

nesbitt

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I have several rooms to paint. Painting kitchen at present. My problem is although I am a neat painter, prep the walls properly and take my time at the job. I do not seem to be able to get a good clean finish when 'cutting in' at wall/ceiling. Any recommendations as to what cutting in brush is best? Is there a tip for perhaps thinning the paint etc.? What do you recommend as to the order of work should you do the cutting in first and the rollering neatly to meet up? I have to DIY as there are budget constraints. I would really want to get a nice clean finish. Thanks.
 
I have several rooms to paint. Painting kitchen at present. My problem is although I am a neat painter, prep the walls properly and take my time at the job. I do not seem to be able to get a good clean finish when 'cutting in' at wall/ceiling. Any recommendations as to what cutting in brush is best? Is there a tip for perhaps thinning the paint etc.? What do you recommend as to the order of work should you do the cutting in first and the rollering neatly to meet up? I have to DIY as there are budget constraints. I would really want to get a nice clean finish. Thanks.

There are different methods to enable you to cut in neatly.

1 you could get a straight edge and out it over the area close to your line then paint move your straight edge and so on so forth.

2 masking tape (least favourite)

3 the way I paint is to brush up to the line about 2 or 3 mm away then work towards the line you want. Once you've gotten to the line you want, leave it and move on to the next bit. It only takes a bit of practice.
 
Try the angled brush for the dulux paint pod. You can buy it seperatly for about 6E. I have found it very easy to use and gives a good finish.
 
Ceiling first, walls next, windows/skirting/doors last (although some people prefer to finish with the walls).

Cut in first, roll second. But only cut in one wall at a time. The cutting in takes longer than the rolling. Plenty of paint on a good, quality 3-inch brush, a steady hand, a bit of patience and plenty of practice.

When you get to the roller, put plenty of paint on it and roll out an area about five feet x four feet, finishing with up strokes from left to right (or right to left, depending on your preference). Always keep the roller turned the same direction, resist the temptation to turn it over. Move on to the next area quickly. And use the right kind of roller for the surface you're painting.

Best of luck, nothing to it, but it takes practice to do a neat job.
 
It takes too much time cutting in with brush etc, in my book, so I cracked and basically masking taped the ceiling bit were it meets the wall. I then just roll painted the entire walls 2 inches from the ceiling, then popped up on my ladder and got the small mini roller and small brush and then just rolled down the last bit against/on the masking tape, using wee brush for those niddly bits. Make sure you get wide enough masking tape cause then the mini roller won't hit the white ceiling. I just peeled it off very slowly and it came away with some paint stuck to it, not a lot now, say one side of the wall, perhaps 4 tiny pieces, so I just went up the ladder again and painted them in with undercoat, undiluted. After trying a few different ways, this way worked best for me as you fly around a room when it is masked over with the tape, skirting also.
 
Thanks everyone. I have the Dulux paint pod accessory brush. I agree it is very good. I think I'm probably too tired when I paint at night but have to fit the DIY jobs around work and family life....
 
u dont use masking tape as that will take the paint off the wall. u need a steady hand!
 
I'll invest in best quality I can afford in a 3" brush. I must admit I would not have considered using a wider paint brush to do 'cutting in' but will indeed give it a try.

I have thought about borders or coving but I have been informed they are not on trend at present!
 
I'll invest in best quality I can afford in a 3" brush. I must admit I would not have considered using a wider paint brush to do 'cutting in' but will indeed give it a try.

I have thought about borders or coving but I have been informed they are not on trend at present!


I would say don't go to B&Q or Woodies, go into your local paint specialist, he/she'll be able to advise the best buy for your task
 
I would say don't go to B&Q or Woodies, go into your local paint specialist, he/she'll be able to advise the best buy for your task

Totally agree JonG beginning to realise that the 'big shed' relailers may not be your best bet. I take care of brushes (and all DIY equipment) I buy so look on it as an investment for several jobs.
 
u dont use masking tape as that will take the paint off the wall. u need a steady hand!

You can get low tack masking tape for the purpose of protecting ceilings from unsteady hands.

Its no use for anything else.
 
I've never hand much time for masking tape when it comes to cutting in; a proper, good quality brush, properly loaded with paint and a good technique (practice and a steady hand) will give the best results. If using water based paints on walls and ceilings it's easy to correct a mistake with a damp cloth or sponge and redo it. When buying brushes for use with emulsion go for artificial bristle and a brush with a stainless steel ferrule. I find "Signature Pro" to be good value and good quality. If corners are undercoat or uneven run a bit of acrylic caulk along the joint, makes it easier to cut in. I was told the correct order for painting a room (and less cutting in as a result) is: prime and undercoat woodwork, allowing undercoat to "flash over" slightly onto walls. Paint ceiling and walls in emulsion, apply finish top coat to woodwork, taking time to cut in neatly. Never try and paint around door handles and other ironmongery etc- if it can be easily removed do so and refit when painting is complete and cured.
 
Paint all the trim first,doors and baseboards. Then paint all your walls,cut in your walls first then roll out the brush marks with a small roller while the paint is still wet this will avoid hat banding around all your edges. Then roll out remainder of the wall. It is far easier to cut in water based flat wall paint against door trim and skirting than the other way round.this system will give you the best results whether you are painting your skirting and doors with oil based paint or waterbased paint. All doors and skirting get complete finish coats first then apply your two finish coats of paint to the walls and any drips from the wall paint on the trim can be easily cleaned up with water. Day one paint all doors and baseboards, day two complete your walls.
 
I've never hand much time for masking tape when it comes to cutting in; a proper, good quality brush, properly loaded with paint and a good technique (practice and a steady hand) will give the best results. If using water based paints on walls and ceilings it's easy to correct a mistake with a damp cloth or sponge and redo it. When buying brushes for use with emulsion go for artificial bristle and a brush with a stainless steel ferrule. I find "Signature Pro" to be good value and good quality. If corners are undercoat or uneven run a bit of acrylic caulk along the joint, makes it easier to cut in. I was told the correct order for painting a room (and less cutting in as a result) is: prime and undercoat woodwork, allowing undercoat to "flash over" slightly onto walls. Paint ceiling and walls in emulsion, apply finish top coat to woodwork, taking time to cut in neatly. Never try and paint around door handles and other ironmongery etc- if it can be easily removed do so and refit when painting is complete and cured.

For previously painted rooms

Myself I undercoat the woodwork first.

Paint the ceiling 1 coat edges first then roll

Then paint the walls roll first then edges

Back to ceiling roll first then edges

Then gloss woodwork.

Possible to get a room done in a day if all your prep work is done first.

Last time I painted a house I prepped everyting first then painted.
 
I'm going to invest in a good artifical cutting in brush, perhaps 'signature pro' as recommended if I can find it. Don't mind paying a bit more as I said because I always wash and air dry brushes on window sill overnight so they are good as new for next time. I think alot of money can be wasted by getting cheapo brushes and throwing them away at the end of the job. When you are faced with another job the accessories can cost as much as the paint.... I also note that I was definitely getting the order of the job wrong and making awkward work for myself. I have all the rooms to work my way through so will get plenty of practice. :eek: Thanks for all tips and replies, much appreciated.
 
I'm going to invest in a good artifical cutting in brush, perhaps 'signature pro' as recommended if I can find it. Don't mind paying a bit more as I said because I always wash and air dry brushes on window sill overnight so they are good as new for next time. I think alot of money can be wasted by getting cheapo brushes and throwing them away at the end of the job. When you are faced with another job the accessories can cost as much as the paint.... I also note that I was definitely getting the order of the job wrong and making awkward work for myself. I have all the rooms to work my way through so will get plenty of practice. :eek: Thanks for all tips and replies, much appreciated.

At night put your very wet brush into plastic bag that will save you having to clean it every night.

If using oil based paint I always throw brushes away after jobs.
 
You could consider using a piece of tin 12" long and placing it into the corner of the room where the wall meets the ceiling and just painting below it. Move it along as you cut in, taking care to wipe any excess pint off the tin. Works very quickly when cutting in.
 
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