Hi S.L.F - how do you draught proof them? We have sash windows, which we love and don't plan to replace. But they are very cold, especially in the bed room which has two windows. Any advice would be appreciated. The house is about 100 years old if that makes any difference. Thanks. S
Hi suds
Ok this is the short version
Remove ths staff beads
Hold the cord and cut it then let the weight down slowly
Same other side
Deal with other side the same way
Remove the bottom sash
Route the top rail of the bottom sash to allow a strip of pile carrier then put darught proofing into it
Remove the parting beads the bring the top sash down as far as it can go then cut the cords as with the bottom sash
Remove the top sash
When I do this for my customers I remove the old pulleys and install new ones
Strip the frame and working parts of the sashes of paint for ease of movement
Remove the pocket covers and take the weights out
Weigh the weights and the sashes
The top sash should be 1 lb lighter than the weight
The bottom sash should be 1ib heavier than the weights
You may need more make weights to make the balance.
After the pulleys are back in cord the sashes
Then put the top sash back into the frame and loop the the cords back into the pulleys the attach them back onto the weights (this can be very difficult if you are not sure what you are doing).
Cut new wooden parting beads to size (with pile carrier strips s standart)
Install draught proof strips into parting beads
Install parting beads
Do not use plastic ones they are in my opinion...rubbish
Place bottom sash into frame and attach to weights
Repalce pocket covers
Then cut new staff beads to size
Install draught proof strips into staff beads
Nail staff beads into position
I normally install new fittings as standard these include new fasteners new lifters and new pull rings.
There are other fittings I use but these are the basics
If you want me to come and see it PM me