New Kitchen Counter Top only.

[Grizzly]

I am looking for a recommendation for a new kitchen counter top. My preference is for a dark wooden teak top. Any recommendations as to where I might purchase one of these and someone to call, measure and install same plus take out old counter top.
Most companies consider this job too small to do.

 

[Leo]

Woodworkers do a range of wooden tops, they will cut to size if required as well.

 

[Grizzly]

Thanks Leo. Do you know if they provide a fitting service that bit is not too clear on their website?

 

[Brighid]

Grizzly, I choose my worktop at Santry panneling centre and Danny Carroll 0877503617 installed it for me. No relation to this guy just has done alot of good work for me.

 

[suemoo1]

Inhouse Kitchens in Santry(part of panelling centre) have lovely worktops.. think its the same plc that Brighid was talking about..

 

[Leo]

Thanks Leo. Do you know if they provide a fitting service that bit is not too clear on their website?

If not, they'll be able to recommend someone to you.

 

[donee]

theres no such thing as 'too small a job' anymore

 

[Grizzly]

theres no such thing as 'too small a job' anymore

I drove down to www.newcastledesign.ie and they wouldn't even entertain me. "We only do complete kitchens" was what I was told.

 

[Leo]

You need a carpenter/ handy man for this one. A full-service kitchen fitting company won't want to touch an installation carried out by another company for fear they'll be blamed for any issues on site.

 

[JoeB]

It's not so much that the job is too small, but that it's hard to predict how long it'll take... and also that the customer often underestimates the work involved.

Are there cutouts in the existing worktop?

Is the sink undermounted or overmounted?

Is the wall behind the existing worktop tiled?

Is the existing worktop the same thickness as the new worktop? (40mm usually)?

Are there many joins in the worktop?

Is the existing worktop solid wood?


Solid wood worktops are installed differently to chipboard Formica type. An expansion gap should be left behind the worktop, of about 6mm to 10mm. This gap would then be covered by an 'upstand' (like a skirting board). The upstand should be made from the same timber as the worktop, although these can't be bought.. they must be made from rough planks (from Morgans Timber etc).


So there's the cost of the worktops, the cost of the upstands (timber and processing into finished pieces), and then the cost of calling out to measure up, time spent travelling to get worktops and upstands... then there's the whole process of changing over the worktops, and without seeing the current setup this is hard to predict. If the tiles were done after the worktop then these may cause problems. Someone has to oil both sides of the new worktop four to six times with oil... this will tke several days as it must dry between coats (Noyeks may have pre-oiled worktops).

Undoing the plumbing may be tricky (this is necessary to change over the sink and taps)... if the existing plumbing is dodgy then it could be very difficult. In other words, there's a chance that existing bad work must be put right before the new worktop can go in.. this is hard to predict in advance.

If the sink is undermounted then the cutout must be done with a router, .. I don't know of any other technique or tool that will produce an acceptable cut.

The worktop should be fixed at the front edge, and only fixed at the back in a way that allows for movement. (This can depend on the exact layout of the worktop)

So the job isn't as easy as it sounds.. .I'd advise that you find out exactly how the workers intend to install the new worktop before picking the cheapest.

You could advertise the job on TenderMe for free... you might get some responses.


Woodworkers are good for prices but I can't see them installing the worktop. There will be no comeback if you use a recommended fitter who messes it up (or at least I don't think there is)

Cheers so

 

[Leo]

Is the sink undermounted or overmounted?

Good point, if the sink is undermounted and you require a draining board, this will have to be routed as well. Any little slip routing the sink cut-out or draining board is likely to mean starting from scratch with a new worktop! There is much potential for an expensive mistake.

I did this for a friend a few years back, it took ages and I'd be in no rush to repeat the experience.

 

[JoeB]

The sink cutouts are made easier if you use a circular saw for the majority of the cuts... and only use a jigsaw to cut the remaining bits into the corners. This won't produce smooth corners but they don't need to be super smooth for this technique.

So the cutout is made smaller than is needed, and then a rebate cutter and a router can be used to rebate an extra 10mm or so off the original cutout.. this tends to smooth out any slight problems, .. but most importantly it makes the corners perfect. Then a flush trimming bit is used in the router to finish the cutout.



A draining board is much more difficult,.. this would require a jig or templates of some sort, depending on how it's done. But if you want the entire draining board to slope slightly towards the sink then there's no easy way. A worker would be justified in charging quite a bit for this... especially as there's risk of a mistake which would require a new worktop.. so the worker must 'insure' himself against this if you get me.. (he insures himself by charging more than would seem necessary at first sight)

(There are mass produced templates for routing sloping grooves, but not to slope an entire surface and also have sloping grooves within the sloping surface... this would be the best and would look amazing but is tricky to do)