New front door

J

Jethro

Registered User
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111
For years I have put up with a dodgy wooden front door that allows gales to blow into the hallway. I really should do something about it.

My question is whether I should stick with wood or go with an alternative?

My mother recently got replacement windows fitted by Global and she is very pleased. She reckons I should go with them for a new door and forget about wood.

If I do that can they fit something that would look similar to my existing door?

I know I could also fit a porch door infront of my existing door, but I don't really like the appearance.

Whatever I do will probably pay for itself over a couple of winters in terms of saved heating costs!!

Thanks in advance for any advice.
 
Why not just get your door draught-proofed?

It would be the simpliest solution.
 
I posted similar questions here before. I replaced a wooden door with a uPVC door last year. Make sure it had the three point closing system so that your new door doesn't warp.

My house faces onto the Atlantic Ocean so a good hall door was essential. The original door was warped within months of it being installed.
 
If you go to my post on Composite doors you will get some info on these. I can vouch that this door really does the job and if you handle the PVc door and the composite door you will really notice the differenace in the weight of the door. I also think they look nicer they dont have the plastic look of PVC. I hope I'm not insulting anyone by saying that.
 
Hans said:
I also think they look nicer they don't have the plastic look of PVC. I hope I'm not insulting anyone by saying that.
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A well constructed uPVC door is better than a badly constructed uPVC door but a well constructed wooden door is by far better than any uPVC door.

Anyway uPVC is cheap and tacky
 
S.L.F said:
...a well constructed wooden door ....
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I'm thinking of changing to a wooden door (currently have an aluminium one), can you elaborate further on "well constructed"? What should I be looking for?
Thanks
 
tiger said:
I'm thinking of changing to a wooden door (currently have an aluminium one), can you elaborate further on "well constructed"? What should I be looking for?
Thanks
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Made from Iroko.

Constructed using mortice and tenon joints at least 40mm think.
 
S.L.F said:
Why not just get your door draught-proofed?

It would be the simpliest solution.
Click to expand...
I have the same problem with mine....tried draught proofing it many times with the off the shelf stuff from woodies, but time & time again it either falls off or isn't up to the job.

Are their professionals out there that can do this propoerly?

I also have a gail force wind comeing through my keyhole....resorted to putting blu tack over it at night
 
You can buy them or have them custom made. When looking at the side of the door you should clearly be able to see the mortice and tennon in at least three places.

Most are 44mm thick and you can also get 56mm thick (which does nothing extra for you except cost you more money).

Make sure to ask for a Teak Hardwood Door as I have written about in some previous posts.
 
tosullivan said:
I have the same problem with mine....tried draught proofing it many times with the off the shelf stuff from woodies, but time & time again it either falls off or isn't up to the job.

Are their professionals out there that can do this propoerly?

I also have a gail force wind comeing through my keyhole....resorted to putting blu tack over it at night
Click to expand...

When I draught proofed my own door I put a groove into the 2 sides and the top then put in the same draught proofing (11.5mm brush) I use in sash windows.

You could get a covered key hole.

tiger said:
Thanks.
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Welcome!

Bluebells said:
Hi S.L.F.,
Can one buy such a door or should one have it made?
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I have a customer who wants an off standard door made so I'm having it made for her costing me €400 to have made, not including glass or fittings or surround. I almost cried when I got the quote.

NHG said:
You can buy them or have them custom made. When looking at the side of the door you should clearly be able to see the mortice and tennon in at least three places.

Most are 44mm thick and you can also get 56mm thick (which does nothing extra for you except cost you more money).

Make sure to ask for a Teak Hardwood Door as I have written about in some previous posts.
Click to expand...

As NHG states the best is Iroko just make sure it is not Sapele.

Also have a good look at the mortices to ensure they are wedged.
 
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