Making late 90s home warmer

L

Luternau

Registered User
Messages
1,439
Building as follows
3 bed semi, standard construction. Brick and render fimish. Drylined internal walls, attic insulation.above ceiling.
Double glazing and Gas c/h

No BER, assume about D1/C3

What option to improve wall insulation and airtightness?
 
Find your house type on this guide and review the options available. The costs and payback period will need to be adjusted given the age of that report.
 
Thanks Leo,
I had a look at that but did not see a semi built in my late 90's. The closest is either no 25. Detached bungalow or no. 25. Terrace house.
I assume my property is also cavity with insulation board in-between plus internal drylining.

My main question:
Is the retro fit to pump more insulation into cavity (least invasive) or rip out existing drylining and install thermal board, or both?
 
How much attic insulation do you have? 90's tends to be just enough to sit between the joists, in reality you should be raising the flooring up there and laying 170-200mm above existing joist-level insulation (if you haven't already). This is probably the most impactful and cost-effective improvement you can make.
 
I missed this reply before now..
conor_mc said:
what’s your objective
Click to expand...
To make the house warmer and more energy efficient, and to sell it.

This house is an ex-rental and requires a lot of work prior to eventual sale.

First off, it needs a new gas boiler (approx €3k). I am wondering if it's worthwhile upgrading to an A2W heat pump at this stage. Obviously, I would need to get an assessment first and follow the advice.

Ahead of that there are obvious things that would make a difference to warmth and energy efficiency with or without a heat pump:

Upgrades/investments
I am adding 200mm loft insulation. DIY Cost: €500
Internal wall insulation: DIY cost €1,700 (excluding plastering)
Solar PV 5.85kw + 10.4kw Battery: €6,700 after grant

Heat pump cost option
Heat Pump: (BG quote €5,100 after grant excl. extras like upgraded radiators, cylinder etc)
Windows: upgrading glazing only (done from inside so it's an easy install) I helped someone do this previously.
Airtightness
MVHR

I asked two auctioneers whether it's worth the energy upgrades with or even wirhout the heat pump. One said yes, the other no.

I dont know if I am opening up a bottomless pit of upgrade costs (MVHR etc) for a heat pump versus just a new gas boiler with upgraded insulation and solar. I think that would get the house from it's current C3 to B1, possibly A3 without a heat pump for under 15k.

What does AAM say?
 
If your objective is just a higher BER to improve sale value, then you can get a big uplift from a hefty dose of solar PV - mine jumped from C3 to A3 on account of 9 kWp of solar and, tbf, some changes to how they calculate the benefits of previous improvements, which included triple-glazing (2013), dry-lining (2011 before we bought) and attic insulation (2018 or so). We also replaced gas hob with induction hob.

Other than that, gas boiler is still ~15 years old, and I was warned off ventilation as it’s a rating minefield and can even reduce your BER since they can ignore a wall vent but not any active ventilation. In terms of real-world heat pump efficiency, MVHR etc. not as important as made out - emitter size (rads,underfloor heating) and proper HP sizing for low flow temps are far bigger factors in efficiency. Unfortunately our system is biased because of the fabric-first policy.
 
if you are planning to sell, then I'd clear and clean, fix obvious maintenance issues (gutters/ drains/ roof), get the boiler serviced / certified, clear the garden / improve kerb appeal and leave the rest for the new purchasers.

you're not likely to get your money back on installing solar / new boiler etc.,

another generally cheap but often a good sales tactic is to have drawings done for a rear extension or attic conversion, show a potential purchaser how they can add value.
 
conor_mc said:
How much attic insulation do you have? 90's tends to be just enough to sit between the joists, in reality you should be raising the flooring up there and laying 170-200mm above existing joist-level insulation (if you haven't already). This is probably the most impactful and cost-effective improvement you can make.
Click to expand...
I'd second that - most 90s insulation is under 170mm and sometimes just 100mm. Bringing this up to 300mm is the cheapest and most effective upgrade you can carry out with a big chunk of it covered by the grant.
 
DannyBoyD said:
if you are planning to sell, then I'd clear and clean, fix obvious maintenance issues (gutters/ drains/ roof), get the boiler serviced / certified, clear the garden / improve kerb appeal and leave the rest for the new purchasers.
Click to expand...
Seconding that, a lot of houses for sale were going for as much as 100k over the asking price last year, those that had issues with the basics, like broken or non existent CH, filthy gutters and greasy drains, smell of vermin infestation etc, were all only going for small amounts over the asking price and not many bidders.
 
In today's market unless it's in a very lack lustre market, I would sell as is. The BER report you will need to get done will point out what needs to be done to improve and that is the starting point for the purchaser. You might reduce your potential market by people looking for a green rate, but I would argue that you would spend too much chasing this customer sector unless you were very close already.
 
Thanks for the replies.

I know I can easily sell it when fully refreshed, and I may just do this.

However, I think extra value can be added, above what it would cost to add it. Eg a kitchen and dining knock through to maximise light and make best use of space. Having seen how dark it can be, I know potential buyers will see it too. I am awaiting a quote on this work. If it's too much, then it's not worth it.

Cervelo said:
Do you plan to live in it for a period
Click to expand...
Yes, for 6 to 9 months while I get some work done on my main residence. That's about it though.

DannyBoyD said:
you're not likely to get your money back on installing solar / new boiler etc.,
Click to expand...
That's interesting. One EA said I absolutely need to replace the boiler. If doing only cosmetic work, I won't upgrade it, as it's fully operational.

lff12 said:
most 90s insulation is under 170mm and sometimes just 100mm
Click to expand...
Its just 100mm between the joists and very poorly fitted. I will definitely be adding 200mm on top and 100mm pir insulation walkthrough to the tank.

Whatever happened to the theory that improving a BER will increase the value of the property? Ultimately proper is only worth what someone is willing to pay, but higher ratings should make higher sales prices.
 
conor_mc said:
you can get a big uplift from a hefty dose of solar PV
Click to expand...
I have a quote for 5.85kw PV and 10 4kw batteries for €6,700 net of grant or just €4,500 without battery. If that gets the property from C3 to B1 or maybe A3, it looks to me like it's worth doing.

Another element of my thinking on spending money on upgrades (within reason) is that when sold, I will have a three figure CGT bill on this house. Eg. If I invest 10k on energy upgrades, that cost is €7k net.

Without speculation on property prices, I would be hopeful to get at least €7k uplift on the sales price with a higher BER. IMO, the €3k CGT saving is better invested in the property for the new owners to enjoy, than paid to Revenue.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top