Best block construction methods

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ollie30

Registered User
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Hi,

We are about to start building a 2600 sq ft 2 storey house and have been searching the internet and threads for information but I'm totally confused.

What I would like to know is:
Since we don't like timer frame (currently live in timber frame and find wall fixing etc very troublesome for shelves etc). We also want concrete slabs on first floor,

what is best method:
1) Standard block and kingspan insulation.
2) Poroton block
3) AAC block by ytong or any similar
4) roadstone safewarm block.

If option 1 is the best solution, is there any way of upgrading above standard regualtions. I have spoken to rep from ytong block and he thinks poroton are brittle to chase??

Also which is most cost effective????

I hope this makes sense and someone can help ease my confusion....

Thanks,

Ollie
 
Re: Some important building questions!!!!!!!!

Hi Ollie,
has your architect advised you on the various options?
 
I would just read up and discuss with all the various reps myself...consult the arch also. The arch is unlikely to have a great knowledge of the full range any way. Arch may be a fan of one or the other and specifys normally without much knowledge of the others.
 
if it ain't broke dont try and fix it , i've seen countless iterations of "new" blocks come and go on sites and almost all consultant Architects and Engineers will specify standard 100mm solids and the insulation of choice would be Kingspan/aerolite.
 
sorry for late reply,architect recommends standard partial fill cavity and says that should be warm enough but i was worried about thermal bridge and thermal loop as other systems are supposed to stop the above faults dont want to have to dry line as this can add time and cost to job but also reduce thermal store of the conrete wall and again back to fixing heavy objects to wall as long screws are needed (friends have found this system of insulated plaserboard have resulted in long screws and not as confident in screwing heavy objects to wall)not trying to go totaly green or anything (every respect for those who are) but just like to build a reasonably priced well insulated house exceeding current building regs as i think why not go beyond a minnimum standard.all help greatly appreciated
 
thanks suellen very intersting,arch. thinks irish weather doesnt suit single leaf construction due to our driving rain must be different than european rain?just incase anybody has any thoughts or answers to any of the mentioned or above thread
 
in order to achieve energy efficiency legislation which is supposed to happen sometime this year or the next the much loved by architects standard cavity wall systems are on the way out as the method of construction is very inefficient in terms poor air-tightness and thermal ratings. the standard hollow block and insulated drylining wall systems on the other hand will acheive this. luckily, due to the mild climate of ireland and the relative affordability of fuel, this particular apect doesn't really affect or bother the construction market or the average consumer. however new legislation may force people to think other wise.
 
ollie30 said:
thanks suellen very intersting,arch. thinks irish weather doesnt suit single leaf construction due to our driving rain must be different than european rain?
Click to expand...

Yes, I've heard this argument, too. Ask your architect for his thoughts about why this method has received an agrement certificate if it's supposedly unsuited to our climate. And how come we're the only country with driving rain. :)

The biggest problem with non-standard methods (i.e. anything other than concrete blocks) is getting a builder to do the work. Most blocklayers charge by the block, for example, and don't know how to quote on Poroton because there are far fewer blocks per square metre of wall - plus they don't know the method. Some of us have gotten over this problem by building it ourselves, which is possible if you're any reasonably handy (and patient).

I think you're going overboard if you're basing the choice of building material on ease of attachment of objects to walls. There are fixings available for every situation.
 
am building 2500m house myself(am blocklayer by trade)and used quinnlite blocks as inside leaf with 60mm kingspan insulation in cavity and standard block for out side leaf.the quinn lite blocks were 1 euro 40 each,expensive but should save in heating costs
 
Also good is 100mm 'common' blockwork exterior leaf with 105mm full cavity fill (silver bead blow in) with a 100mm 'common' blockwork interior leaf.
Such as Certainfill Graphite 27 plus. That will give you 0.27 U-value with a 305mm over all wall.

Not all full cavity fill will give you 0.27 at 105mm, beware.

Advantage:
Normal cavity wall construction but with NO insulation worries like coldbriding, gaps at corners, up to 20% (thrown all over site) waste cut offs...
Block layers are not insulators!
Use smooth ties.
When walls are up, roof on windows in, basically cavity closed all around.
Let the pros blow in insulation into the cavity.

Your architect should be happy with that!

You can up the u-value by using a Quinn lite on the interior cavity leaf.

Usefull link on Insulation agrement certificates:
[broken link removed]

Then go to Product area , Select a Catagory.
 
was informed on another forum by a sustainable builder to use standard 9 inch hollow block but with (i think 150mm) paroc insulation on outside then plaster over,i'm not connected in any way to the building trade but never liked them blocks but then am i back to knocking any method thats not standard?extopia how did you find poroton and did you use any other insulation?is it much more expensive of a method and has anyone tried the full fill cavity method not long before we start and need to make a decission still very confussed and not finding any architects in our area too willing to shed much light on the subject strange since there is some good ones out there
 
I found the poroton blocks great to work with as I was doing the building myself. They have a very good U-value. Although it is not deemed necessary by the manufacturer, we insulated further on the inside, with insulated plasterboard, not the very thick stuff, just 25mm. The exterior is rendered with insulating lime mortar. Pretty snug, though as we don't use the hosue full time it's hard to get a realistic idea of running costs. Poroton is expensive - about 4 euro per block, translates to about 64 euro per square metre of wall.
 
There are various insulated external render systems available that you can use with a single leaf of standard blocks, laid on their 215mm edge.

The insulated render is applied to the external leaf and is approximately 120mm thick giving you a wall build up of around 335mm

The advantage of these systems is that they give an excellent u-value (better than what is currently necessary) and they simplify construction - no cavity and therefore none of the associated problems.

To achieve air tightness you will need to use a vapour barrier and seal it around each ope - there are various product on the market that are specifically designed to ensure air tight seals around windows where it can be tricky.
 
thanks folks sounds like the standard block either cavity or solid with extierior insulation and renderred is a good job that'll exceed current regs why arent more concrete carnivours like myself willng to use this system,is it used much in ireland?what is done where stone is going to be used to face parts of the front (which faces north)
 
standard 100mm outter lear partial fill 100mm cavity with 65mm kingspan, just do a few spot check down the cavitys urself when the blocklayer starts ensure wall ties are kept clean no obstructions in the cavity and that insulation is kept tight against inner leaf and that it comes up to all jambs windows doors properly, also you said you want concrete floors on first floor then the inside leaf will have to be standaed block on flat 215mm thick so that the ducon concrete slabs can rest on them on top of which the floor will be poured mason by trade myself
 
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