BER Rating: Evacuated Tube vs Flat Plate

W

westside

Registered User
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I am looking at Sonnenkraft solar.

1. Tubes [broken link removed]

2. Flat Plate
[broken link removed]

Supposing I were to purchase 2 panels of either along with a 300L tank which would have the better BER rating?
 
westside said:
I am looking at Sonnenkraft solar.

1. Tubes [broken link removed]

2. Flat Plate
[broken link removed]

Supposing I were to purchase 2 panels of either along with a 300L tank which would have the better BER rating?
Click to expand...

you need to check their efficiency on the HARP database...
 
There are anomolies all over the place on how solar panels are assessed for BER rating. Worst aspect of this is that for most tube systems for example, there is no way of including IAM information, which would show an improvement of about 20% for tubes.

There are also difficulties in getting any solar water heating system to meet the regs for a house with a large floor area. There are assumptions made about the number of people in the house and how much water they will use. Basically they don't use enough water for solar to make up 10kwhrs / sq M.

I wouldn't design a system around maximising the BER rating unless you have to. Design it using simulators that provide you with what you need, and see if that fits the regs. If not, you have a problem...
 
ber

Qunitendargen is correct. im building a 3k sq ft house and am using solar but it becomes very difficult to comply with regulations without using very large arrays of solar that is largely impractical as it overheats the water requirements and is useless for heating with oil as there is no buffer storage for heating.
You are then lookng to reduce the solar array by increasing other items such as wood burning stoves pellet stoves and others to geat your deap calculations up to aboe 10kw/m2. you really shoud get anexperienced ber accessor to go over this with ou.
 
pjmcke said:
Qunitendargen is correct. im building a 3k sq ft house and am using solar but it becomes very difficult to comply with regulations without using very large arrays of solar that is largely impractical as it overheats the water requirements and is useless for heating with oil as there is no buffer storage for heating.
You are then lookng to reduce the solar array by increasing other items such as wood burning stoves pellet stoves and others to geat your deap calculations up to aboe 10kw/m2. you really shoud get anexperienced ber accessor to go over this with ou.
Click to expand...
In relation to your 3k sq ft house, funnily enough you might find that solar meets the regs if you fit a 1,000L buffer. That's because the only way you can produce usable energy from a solar panel is by storing it for longer periods. I've seen some situations in which you could put in about 8 sq M and an 800L cylinder and that would work, but with a 300L cylinder, you couldn't get within the regs without an acre of panels.

The other solution that I would suggest if you don't want a wood stove, is to look at solar PVs along with solar water heating. That is becoming more cost effective (to meet the regs at least) and alongside solar water heating, might be your least cost option. A combination of 4Kw Hrs from PVs and 10Kw HRs per sq m for thermal works.

Not that anyone is building holiday homes at the moment, but that is the only practical way to meet the regs for houses that are unattended a lot of the time. Q
 
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