Laminate warped after cutting it

A

argolis

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I'm trying to do the first row of laminate flooring which is coming out wonky. I'm cutting it down by 7cm, almost half the width, to account for rad pipes and other fixtures in the room. After putting down the first narrow row, when I try to put a second row plank in place if I push it in at one end, it pops out at the other end and vice versa.

After checking the first row planks against a large steel rule, I can see that they're all bowed which explains that. So, I assumed the first pack has some bad planks.

I checked some new planks are perfectly square. I cut them, immediately check again and now they're bowed too in the same way so not really usable. This is bizarre to me. I can't find any reference to this sort of problem anywhere online.

For clarity, the side that I'm NOT cutting is ending up bowed. The side that I'm cutting is against the wall and it shouldn't really matter what way that's cut, the other side should still be square because it hasn't been touched.

Am I making some rookie mistake here, any suggestions?
 
argolis said:
any suggestions?
Click to expand...

The mdf core of the boards are affected by the cutting.

Set in the full second row to lock row 1 in place.

Then proceed to install the floor as normal.

The new skirting/beading will lock in the wall side of the first cut row.

Maybe use a weight(s) to keep everything flat until it is held in place on the long joint.
 
AAAContributor said:
The mdf core of the boards are affected by the cutting.

Set in the full second row to lock row 1 in place.

Then proceed to install the floor as normal.

The new skirting/beading will lock in the wall side of the first cut row.

Maybe use a weight(s) to keep everything flat until it is held in place on the long joint.
Click to expand...

The cut edge just looks like solid MDF particle board but perhaps there's a material core that's getting affected like you say. Any full planks click together just fine. I'm gonna bring it to the shop tomorrow and see if they or their fitter have any advice.

I tried locking in the second row but just couldn't, the long joints kept popping out at either end and if I got reasonably close, it still looks a bit crap because at least one of the joints will have a gap wider on one side than the other. YouTubers say you need to tap in the first few rows which makes sense when you can't push them hard at the start but this seems excessive.

It's 12mm thick board. Will update if I can get any answers, even if they're self-incriminating...
 
Try using weights like full packs of boards to hold the first row while clicking the second and third into place. Ideally you should be using packing wedges around the edges to allow you apply the required force to properly join boards without moving the whole floor. If the joints are properly engaged, they shouldn't just come apart on most quality laminate.

Many of these laminate boards actually do need a bit of force to really engage the locking profiles. You can get specially profiles plastic tools that butt up to the edge of the laminate allowing you to strike them with a rubber mallet without damaging the edges, but I find a ~20cm length ripped in half does the job with less risk of damage

MDF and particle boards are different things, but cutting either won't result in warping as they're extremely stable (MDF more so than particle board) and don't hold tension like that unless they weren't stored flat. Once weighted and later pinned by the skirting it should be fine.
 
So, I brought the plank to the shop, shop guy got what I was saying but neither he nor their fitter had an idea unless the wall or the floor was out of shape. Despite the builder cutting corners elsewhere in this 25 year old house, that room is remarkably square and floor level.

In any case, I had to resort to using more force and I got there in the end. I'm not crazy about having to use the extra force and I suspect those first couple of rows are under some tension. I hope that it settles down and some don't pop up during humid weather. After a number of rows, the ends of each row became easier and the centre area was the last to straighten out and become easier to lock in place. I find it bizarre tbh.

The tips I got online tally with what you say Leo. Use an offcut as a sacrificial tapping block i.e. I'm clicking that in place and rubber malleting that to get the boards in, a few bits flying off it but no harm to the planks. A few small offcuts as 12mm spacers too and all perfectly aligned. Stacked a few boxes on top of the first few rows to hold them in place.

Everything is going really well now that problem is sorted. I just cannot visualise how/why the planks could be popping out. I'll be moving onto LVT flooring soon in another room, will be interesting to see if that room is also built over an old Indian burial ground :)

Thanks for the advice folks
 
Well done on getting it finished.The click system in laminate is varied on the market.The plastic clicking system is the best and easiest system to fit .Just note fitting LVT has a different click system and needs a floor 100% level , if not it will tell in months to come as the floor settles .The market has many different qualities too . Enjoy the work .
 
I just finished a small LVT project. I found it much more difficult to lay and lock than laminate. I got the hang of it after a few rows.
 
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