How do I "flush/bleed" an oil boiler?

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I completely ran out of oil and now the oil has been delivered I need to flush out the air to get the boiler started again. The model is a Firebird Hideaway Popular 82. I know I have to remove the cover at the bottom of the boiler, loosen a nut/bolt and get the pump to run so that the air can be "sucked" out, but the problem is WHICH nut/bolt? Unfortunately I don't have the instructions, can anyone who has the same model tell me what to do?

Many thanks.
 
Take off the cover locate the pump The pump will be where the oil line connects into.

There will be a bung which can be removed with (I think) a 5/8" spanner. If in doubt, post a pic of the pump. (Do NOT interfere with the pressure adjuster - the one which can be turned with a screwdriver.)

Open this 5/8" bung and "run" the boiler until the fuel runs out clear of air. If the boiler locks out, run the process again until the oil runs clear.

Then replace the bung and the boiler should run ok.
 
I think I found it (it has a "hole" that looks a bit like a radiator key) - only a little bit of oil came out, but the boiler is working again, so it seems to have done the trick. Thanks a million for your help, Avns1s, the house was freezing!
 
When that happens to me I ask the Oil Company if the delivery man can do it and that solves the problem. All you have to do is ask when ordering the oil.
 
New Home said:
I think I found it (it has a "hole" that looks a bit like a radiator key) - only a little bit of oil came out, but the boiler is working again, so it seems to have done the trick. Thanks a million for your help, Avns1s, the house was freezing!
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No bother, you're welcome.
 
For future reference (in case anyone else is interested) it comes down to this. You mentioned that your boiler is a Firebird Hideaway Popular 82. That doesn't really have anything to do with how to clear an airlock. What you really need to do is know what type of burner you have. As the name suggests, this is what fits into the front of the boiler and 'burns' the fuel. I'd say most people these days have a bentone burner. Where the oil line comes in from the tank you'll see a 'flexible' oil pipe. This is a silver looking pipe that connects into the burner. Near where that connects to the burner is a screw. This can either be in the form of a nut or a screw. This just has to be opened slightly until all the air is released and some fuel comes out. Usually this is opened with an Allen key.

Most oil delivery men will do this for you, but a lot charge for doing it, and considering its so easy to do, why would you pay?
 
Will the method posted by Avns1s work for a Firebird Balanced Popular 90 ??

Thanks for help ! I'm ffffrrreeeezzinnngg
 
Have a look into your boiler housing a day or 2 after doing this procedure to check for leaks as a precaution, especially if you are not used to doing this kind of work. Avoid opening the connection at the end of the fuel delivery pipe if possible as these can be hard to re-seal. The bleed screw that opens with an allan key is your safest bet.
 
No, its definitely a bleed screw. But I think the adjuster you are talking about is in the same area.
 
If you have a Riello burner like the other 80% of the population don't go near that allen key one as you'll mess up the pressure setting for the burner. Open any other bolt you like but don't touch the one with the allen key fitting.

Also the easiest way to be safe is to open the fitting at the end of the flexible pipe, then give the burner one or two resets and it should kick off.
 
This is my Firebird Heatpac 70-90 standalone oil boiler. Ran out of oil a couple of days ago and need to clear the airlock. The manual is as clear as mud. Do I just need to turn that tap (at the bottom - on end of oil supply feed pipe) clockwise?? Can anyone point me in the right direction?
 
baguio2007 said:
This is my Firebird Heatpac 70-90 standalone oil boiler. Ran out of oil a couple of days ago and need to clear the airlock. The manual is as clear as mud. Do I just need to turn that tap (at the bottom - on end of oil supply feed pipe) clockwise?? Can anyone point me in the right direction?
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Not the tap. That a valve that will close if there is a fire which will stop oil feeding the burner.

After that tap there is a flexible blue pipe running to the pump. Where it joins the pump there is a silver nut. Loosen (not open) that until oil comes then tighten. Give the burner two resets then to get burner going.
 
Do you mean this nut that i've circled Its at the end of the flexible blue pipe - but its really isnt inclined to shift - just want to double check before i go any further.
 
baguio2007 said:
Do you mean this nut that i've circled Its at the end of the flexible blue pipe - but its really isnt inclined to shift - just want to double check before i go any further.
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Yes, catch the flexible blue pipe in your other hand and keep it perpendicular to the nut. PS your going to need a spanner to open it - it will not open by hand.
 
davidoco said:
Yes, catch the flexible blue pipe in your other hand and keep it perpendicular to the nut. PS your going to need a spanner to open it - it will not open by hand.
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Thanks for that davidoco. Job done. I can't see why they couldnt put that in their manual - there must be people up and down the country facing that problem every day of the week.

Least now i know how to sort it in future.
 
baguio2007 said:
Thanks for that davidoco. Job done. I can't see why they couldnt put that in their manual - there must be people up and down the country facing that problem every day of the week.

Least now i know how to sort it in future.
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Good

There is actually a bleed nut on the pump but since there are a few different ones on each pump it is safer for the diyer to do it that way.

You should check that connection you opened in a day or two to make sure it is not leaking. Wipe around it with tissue and then check back a couple of days later.
 
davidoco said:
There is actually a bleed screw/nut on the pump but since there are a few different ones on each pump it is safer for the diyer to do it that way.
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Is that the 'screw' directly above the nut I adjusted? I'm afraid that in my haste to get it sorted, I loosened that one ....so i hope it wasnt anything to do with airintake...

davidoco said:
You should check that connection you opened in a day or two to make sure it is not leaking. Wipe around it with tissue and then check back a couple of days later.
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Will do. ..thanks.
 
baguio2007 said:
Is that the 'screw' directly above the nut I adjusted? I'm afraid that in my haste to get it sorted, I loosened that one ....so i hope it wasnt anything to do with airintake...
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The "screw" type device (black bottle shape with a flat head slot in a threaded hole) is for adjusting the pump pressure and has a big bearing on the efficiency of the burner. OTHER READERS NOTE DO NOT TOUCH IT. Hopefully you didn't move it too much (ie more than 1/2 a turn). It's unlikely you'll remember how much or in what direction you turned it but if you remember undo it. From reading my post I did say "bleed nut/screw". I edited it now but it should read "bleed nut". Sorry about that.

Now for the fun part, two sceanarios -

1. you may notice that your boiler is now emitting black or blacker smoke than usual.

2. you may notice that you are using more oil and there is little or no smoke from the flue outlet.

Both are inefficient but your will still have heating. Only worry if you have serious black smoke coming out.

On your next service tell the service person what you did and they will check it.
 
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