Heating problem !

T

taraking

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Hi all looking for some help here before I lose the will to live!!! Long story so I'll keep it as short as possible & to the point if I can.. ok..I have a Grant 70/90 series outdoor boiler. I had a fire in it 2 weeks ago,it melted the thermostat & wireing. I have had a new set of baffles installed (as the old ones were in bits) & the guy said that was my problem... also installed a new thermostat & time clock.& insulated it.He said the burner was fine(I replaced it 2years ago) Pump is fine too......he got it going & it worked fine for one day...now its gone again. I had it set on timer to come on this morning at 7am...which it did,but it went off again as the rads wernt hot only warm...I checked the clock & there is no indicator light on.....no fuses blown,took front cover off & discovered thermostat is slightly melted??? boiler is totally dead....all electrics in the house are fine....so can anyone tell me what to look for? The guy that fixed it is unavailable for the next two weeks...I would be grateful for any help please.
 
If the terminal connections on the thermostat are tight (check with screwdriver) then there is an issue with the rating of your protective fuse as it should have gone long before the thermostat melted.

Since only the burner is on the thermostat (pump should be running all the time when the clock is on) this points to an issue with the burner.
 
Thanks for the reply...where are the terminal connections ?? are they in the burner? shouldnt there be an indicator llight on anyway? I'm kinda thinking it has something to do with the electrics.....clock is totally dead as well?
 
The terminal connections are the screws on the thermostat where the wires go.
 
taraking said:
Thanks for the reply...where are the terminal connections ?? are they in the burner? shouldnt there be an indicator llight on anyway? I'm kinda thinking it has something to do with the electrics.....clock is totally dead as well?
Click to expand...

My advice would be to not touch anything unless you are absolutely sure what you are doing. There are/maybe dangerous voltages (230 VAC) involved and unless you are experienced working with electrical devices then you are taking unnecessary risks which could prove fatal.

Either wait until the original guy is available or get some other qualified person to take a look.
 
Thanks for replying...I wouldn't be holding my breath waiting for the original guy to come back...I seem to have a 'Lets catch this one' written on my forehead! as we always seem to get cowboys who say they can fix it...Sorry if I sound cynical but we are forever getting caught. I had it serviced this time last year & Ive been informed if it was a proper service then it would have been spotted that the baffles needed changing...at my wits end here as we only have an open fire that heats one room..the rest of the house is freezing & TBH I cant afford to use the immersion for hot water..I'm at the stage where I am willing to try anything to get it going again..but sparkrite is after giving me a scare saying there are dangerous voltages involved...*deep sigh*
 
Absolutely do not touch anything. Water, electricity and fuel do not mix well if there is a dangerous fault.
If the service person did not correctly identify the issue and then cannot return for 2 weeks, I would change to somebody better.
Firstly, you should have a remote acting fire valve to stop fuel being supplied to the appliance in case of fire. Secondly, all electrical components can easily be tested for faults and if issue was electrical, it should have been corrected.
Finally, misplaced damaged baffles generally do not cause fires. Incorrect flue seals and door seals do.
Go to www.oftec.org and search your location for an OFTEC registered technician. ASK them are they competent to carry out both boiler & electrical fault finding. If they are not, move on.
What area are you in?
 
Thanks Shane I'm in East Cork....I had an electrician call today & he got it going...he said there is too much heat coming from the boiler & that melted the wiring which caused the time clock to cut out.. He told me that the BOLT holding the burner in has been sheared off...& that's what's causing the problem..he rewired it & got it going for me..but advised me to have the bolt replaced as the burner sounded good.he told me when I have the heating on,to leave the front & top cover off the casing so the air can circulate...hey...I'm not going to blow up...am I....?
 
I am glad you got someway sorted, but with all due respect, an electrician is not a boiler technician unless he also suitably trained and certified with OFTEC. I would most certainly not use the boiler until it is checked by one.

Leaking hot flue gases not only are a danger to the boiler, but what also leaks from them is CARBON MONOXIDE. This is an odourless and colourless gas and can kill within minutes. Only two weeks ago, I purchased a personal CO alarm and it has already alarmed twice whilst at an installation.

Please do not use this boiler until it is checked by a competent OFTEC technican and full flue gas analysis is carried out.
 
Shane I used it for a few hours today to get some heat into the house...Feck...you really are scaring me now!
 
Sorry for scaring you but it is a very serious matter. Especially with the evidence you are providing. As for your previous boiler guy, if he went away and left a boiler in that state, well need I say what he is. Any decent technician would first and foremost leave a boiler working safely.
 
Shane...I did point out that I have 'catch me' written on my forehead lol....if I don't laugh about it I''ll just cry ..Hey..thanks so much for all your replys...I do appreciate it .
 
Had a multifuel stove (horse flame) with back boiler installed instead of existing open fireplace. Wonderful heat and heated 7/8 rads plus tank efficiently. Had a makeshift covering at back (covering the fireplace opening ) recently had a better job done in this and totally sealed off and tidier...problem, since doing this fire eats fuel, steam going up the expansion pipe every 10/15 mins...rads taking longer to heat and not as good. Anybody able to throw a light on this problem, it would appear to be the fault of my closing off the opening, but why such a big change in operation? Baffled!!
Forgot to mention it was installed about 3 years ago and working a dream till recently!
 
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