Electric gate - cheapest option?

roadrunner

Registered User
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I`m looking into sourcing electric gates at the moment.
Just wondering is there much savings in sourcing the kit & getting electrician to fit rather than going direct to a specialist company?
Has anyone one done this and how much did it cost.
 
Me to, now its cold there is nothing worse than climbing out of my car opening the gate, driving through, closing the gate etc
 
It depends on wheather you want convenience or security. For Security you must have the gates where the workings are under the ground. The gates with the rams on the back are useless. They can be forced open quite easily and off little security. We got ours underground ones for about 3500 I think including the gates & they have never had a problem. Don't go for the cheapest - you will be driven mad!
 
Hi,

Had gates automated about 4 years ago, got our electrician to do it. You are better to get it done this way as in my opinion the contractors will only rig up the rams but you still in most cases have to get an electrician to run wiring from your house. I got the Sera rams and they are attached to the gate - the only way you will force them open is if you ram a car at them which please God will never happen but if you are living in a populated area the wires can be cut easily enough so the underground system is better for that. If you are really security conscious and want a ram proof (excuse the pun) gate - go for the sliding gate if you have the space for it to open. In the 4 years I haven't had too many problems with them and the electrican who put them in sorts out the problem - whereas with a contractor the charge a call out and won't come out unless you have a maintenance contract. About 4 years ago it cost about E2000.

Angela59
 
Guys,

A few points here,

The underground systems do not offer more protection than the actuators on the back of the gate. If anything the actuators on the gate offer more impact resistance, however no system is designed to take an impact. The only way to try and protect the automation is to fit an electric lock that will take the impact.
The choice of actuator is also dependant on the gate size and construction. Open bar gates are suited to underground systems. Solid wooden gates should be the surface mounted actuators.

The underground system is as reliable as any of the other systems. The problem of the boxes filling with water is caused by incorrect installation.
The water is going to run down the gate post and into the box, where it should be drained away. Each box has at least 2 drain holes and the installers are suppose to ensure that the water can drain away and not get caught in the box. The only reason a box will fill with water is that either the box is in wring or the water table around the gates is too high in which case surface actuators should be used.

A good electrician can install most systems, however you sometimes need a fitter to ensure that the geometry of the equipment and welding is correct.

Paul24
 
Has anyone ever tried running two sets of gates off the one mechanism? i.e. can you hook say two of the sets of gate rams to one control?
 
No matter what system you get if the gates are heavy and are not hung property (they bind against each other then they close) you will have problems.
A business beside my own had this problem with gates which were run off a motor and the swinging action as the gates became unstuck from each other caused excessive ware on the motors.
 
Hi,

To add a further point - I had a switch installed in the kitchen so if you were expecting a delivery of oil or whatever you could open the gates and leave them open with the aid of the internal switch. I have a sensor inside the gate and also outside the gate so if there is a time delay the gate won't close on your car.

Angela59
 
At last something I can sort of answer !

For security and convenience I wanted automatic gates too. For the gates themselves, I went with Leinster Timber Products - they put me in touch with an installer. When he came out he gave me a ball park quote of Eur2500 to automate them. Can't remember what I paid for the gates themselves, but as I went for the softwood option, they weren't newarly as expensive as the teak/hardwood option. Three years on, and they are still perfect.

So for the automation, I bought a kit from ebay for about USD600. It worked for about a year or so, but had problems and spare bits/zappers weren't easy to come by.

This year, I swapped out the kit for a Liftmaster system. After much research, this kit seemed to have the best availability of individual spare parts should something go wrong. I bought it from Germany (this kit: http://www.nothnagel-haustechnik.de/product_info.php?info=p179_SCS300K-24---Wing-gate-operator-set-with-2-arms--3-0m---24V.html) . I installed and set it up myself. The difference between this kit and the previous, is probably like comparing a 1980's Lada to a 2008 Merc ! It's quality stuff. I also installed an electrical Viro lock, to lock the gates when closed - not absolutely necessary as the rams hold the gates firm, but more a belts and braces approach. In hindsight, I should have gone with a maglock as the Viro lock buzzes like a buzzin bee.

For safety beams, I installed two sets. One set between the gate posts and a second set just outside the arc of the open gates. This was to stop the gates closing in the event of a car being parked in the arc of the closing gate (if you know what I mean!).

For convenience, I sourced a cellular relay (and put a Ready to Go SIM in it). This allows me to call the SIM card and the gates open automatically. Handy if you have a delivery and your not at home and the delivery guy calls to say he's outside ! Likewise, for friends / relatives (who you aren't giving out loads of zappers to), rather than them having to get out and buzz the intercom everytime. I sourced it here : http://www.quantekshop.co.uk/GSM.html

For the intercom system, I went with a colour video system, that has two panels in the house - one in the front by the door and one in the back in the kitchen. The panels are very sleek with large 7 - 8" colour flatscreens. When someone rings the gate, both monitors wake up, ring like a normal doorbell and show the image of who's outside. The camera on the gate is infrared, so it works at night perfectly fine too. I can't recall the site I bought them on - it was in the US and was about USD500.

I also installed a dual relay keypad on the gate post. Keying in xxxx opens just one leaf of the gate wherease keying in yyyy opens both. This is an ACT keypad picked up in my local electrical store for approx Eur100.

For the automation, I probably spent about Eur1750 - haven't added it all up. For that though, it does everything I want and as I installed it, if it does act up, then I don't have to wait around to get someone out, pay for a yearly maintenance contract etc.

Anyhow that's my system - perhaps not for everyone.

Podge
 
thanks for nice post, i'll use it to explain what I want as easch quote so far leaves me lost.

naoh
 
Podge, I also purchased liftmaster kit (underground boxes) through http://www.gateauto.co.uk but am waiting for my electrician to hook up the power supply. I am considering purchasing a dial2open gsm unit also and was wondering if the arial attached to the gsm unit has to be exposed or is it ok to put it in with the CB11 control board?
 
Podge, I also purchased liftmaster kit (underground boxes) through http://www.gateauto.co.uk but am waiting for my electrician to hook up the power supply. I am considering purchasing a dial2open gsm unit also and was wondering if the arial attached to the gsm unit has to be exposed or is it ok to put it in with the CB11 control board?

Hi Ed

No - not at all. In fact mine is in the attic. I have a loop running to the house for opening the gates from the intercom. So with the Dial2Open, I'm just breaking in to that loop. Keeps it nice and simple.

Regardless, wherever you locate the unit, you can text a special command to it and it'll text you back with signal strength.

Hope this helps
Podge
 
Thanks Podge,

I forgot to mention that my intercom is a Daitem Wireless one which i opted to get as I didnt fancy cutting through footpaths to get in to the house with the comms cable. I should have enough room at the gate to put the dialer in with the Control board.

Rgds. Ed
 
Thanks Podge,

I forgot to mention that my intercom is a Daitem Wireless one which i opted to get as I didnt fancy cutting through footpaths to get in to the house with the comms cable. I should have enough room at the gate to put the dialer in with the Control board.

Rgds. Ed


Hi Ed

The Dial2Open unit is no bigger than a cigarette packet so you should have room. One possibly helpful hint with the control box : have a second weatherproof electrical enclosure right beside the Liftmaster enclosure. Make all your connections in this and then have feeder wires going to the Liftmaster. That way you don't have to have lots of wires going to individual terminals, e.g. the 12v accessory supply - but just the one set - if you see what I mean...

The best of luck with it

Podge
 
Hi Podge

Thanks for the very helpful post - do you want to come out and do mine :)

SSE
 
Hi Ed

The Dial2Open unit is no bigger than a cigarette packet so you should have room. One possibly helpful hint with the control box : have a second weatherproof electrical enclosure right beside the Liftmaster enclosure. Make all your connections in this and then have feeder wires going to the Liftmaster. That way you don't have to have lots of wires going to individual terminals, e.g. the 12v accessory supply - but just the one set - if you see what I mean...

The best of luck with it

Podge

I put the Liftmaster enclosure into a bigger enclosure at the weekend which has room for a power cutoff switch plus the Dial2open unit, so there is double protection for the Liftmaster enclosure.
 
Guys,

The other thing to do is seal everything. Every gland or entry point into your control panel - make sure you silicon all holes.
The slugs, creppy crawlies and every other insect is attracted to the panel by the heat and if you get one of these on the control board then it's a new control board.

Paul24
 
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