Dry Lining

[Gimme]

The MIL is gutting her scullery and putting in whole new kitchen. Two of the walls are external mass concrete and I think she should dry line them but as the job is so small no one will want it and as I will probably get the job I’m looking for some advice.

1. Do I need to put plastic between the batons and the wall?
2. Should I use brass screws in place of steel nails?
3. Should I put in insulation between the wall and plaster slab?
4. Hope this isn’t stupid – is there 2 sides to the slab? One for plastering and the other for skimming – taping the joints and filling the nail holes (this would be my preferred option).

I should mention the walls are perfectly dry at the moment but are a bit rough and cold, there is a lot of condensation.

Is there anything else I should watch out for?

 

[Jenny_H]

Mr H just finish drylining an outside shed.

He treated the wood, then put up plastic sheeting, nailed (I think?) the wood onto the walls, then screwed the slabs to the timber, filled the holes and gaps then painted the whole thing. One thing he learnt was to use 8 by 4 sheets as there are less gaps.

HTH

 

[Builder]

When I had enquired from Kingspan about drylining walls they said that a substance could be dabbed onto the wall and then the sheets fixed to this. If you give Kingspan a ring the technical dept will be able to advise you on the various methods

 

[z102]

Wet walls should not be covered with whatsoever from the inside . Dry them first for good.

 

[monkey0804]

You can get dry lining slabs (not sure the term is correct). Bascially it's a sheet of wallboard with about an ince of insulation at the back. You can use the already mentioned plaster to stick it to the walls or you can use special plastic type screws to be really secure (I'd recommend the latter as we've had problems with the slippage on the wallboard leading to cracks). No need to use battons, this stuff goess straight onto the walls.


Then of course you will probably have to plaster/skim over it.