Cost of Oil Tank

I

IWONDER

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64
Hi,
Could anyone give me an idea of how much I can expect to pay for a 1050 litre plastic tank? I have looked on the web and searched through this site also and cannot find anything.
Thanks.
 
Even 280 + VAT seems a bit expensive as I just purchased a 1300 litre standard cylindrical pvc oil storage tank n (the standard green one) in Athlone for 240 including VAT last week. im a good client of the supplier but I shouldnt imagine you'd be paying much more. My parents have the same tank for a good 10 years.
 
Single Skin Oil Tanks start at around €215 + VAT. (You will also require a tank kit, i.e. fittings, isolation valve, remote acting fire valve, etc.)
Bunded Oil Tanks are very expensive and start at around €650 - €1,200 + VAT. The more expensive ones may have more features, such as built in level indicators, overfill alarms, better secondary containment, etc.
Either way, make sure either oil tank has an OFCERT. (Certified by OFTEC) (Oil Fired Technicians Assocation)

Note: Ensure that you only require a single skin oil tank, i.e. your oil tank is located more than 10m from a gulley, 50m from a bore hole, well, waterway, water table, etc. and is not on hard ground that is sloped to a public highway, etc.
Otherwise, the oil tank MUST be bunded. If you fit a Single Skin Oil Tank within the above situations, then you should check with your insurance company to see if you are insured, should there be a leak, etc.
One case I am aware of is: oil tank split 2 days after fill, 1,000 litres of oil into waterway, client claimed from insurance, insurance company by law informed EPA (Environmental Protection Agency), EPA submitted bill for clean up for €300,000, insurance company refused to pay as oil tank should have been bunded, homeowner liable for bill, ongoing, etc., etc......
Moral of story: Check with your insurers. Over the lifetime of the oil tank, many 10's of thousands of euros of oil will pass through it, for the extra cost, put in a bunded tank.
It's safer!
 
Thanks very much for the info everyone. I should be fine with the single skin tank going by the criteria detailed by Shane007.
:)
 
I have been having various issues with a firebird oil burner for the last few years - the latest problem is that I have had to replace the pump (€200 Inc Fitting ) because of water in the tank. my heating guy says that I should replace the tank as water is building up in it. He also says I could pay someone to drain it and then have it refilled ... I don't understand why you would need to replace the tank ?
 
bk777 said:
I have been having various issues with a firebird oil burner for the last few years - the latest problem is that I have had to replace the pump (€200 Inc Fitting ) because of water in the tank. my heating guy says that I should replace the tank as water is building up in it. He also says I could pay someone to drain it and then have it refilled ... I don't understand why you would need to replace the tank ?
Click to expand...


Maybe you should get another opinion.
 
bk777 said:
I have been having various issues with a firebird oil burner for the last few years - the latest problem is that I have had to replace the pump (€200 Inc Fitting ) because of water in the tank. my heating guy says that I should replace the tank as water is building up in it. He also says I could pay someone to drain it and then have it refilled ... I don't understand why you would need to replace the tank ?
Click to expand...

Water in oil tanks is a very common problem. It is basically caused by condensation within the tank and water being heavier than oil, will sit at the bottom of the tank. Once the level reaches the outlet, it will cause damage to the oil pump in the burner.

I use "Water Detecting Paste" smeared on end of stick. It is green in colour but upon contact with water, it turns purple. You can then see if you have water in the bottom of your tank and how much is present. I have often removed upto 50 litres of water from tanks.

To remove the water, you do NOT require a new oil tank, nor have it drained and refilled. You can purchase a pump that attachs to a drill, switch on and it will pump from the bottom into a suitable container. These pumps costs approx €25. Alternatively, you can purchase a hand pump that will do the same. Just re-test the level of water with the paste at intervals.

If water has caused your oil to malfunction, it will happen again if the problem is not sorted, but your boiler engineer should have removed the water from the tank when he/she replaced the pump. It's a given! I always carry the removal equipment to every job.

Hope this helps...
 
If the amount of water in not too large, you can purchase 'water hogs' that will absorb water (but not oil) they are lowered into your tank attached to a fishing line and submerge where over a period of time will absorb and remove your tank water (it's actually a good idea to leave a permanent one in the tank to absorb any condensation that occurs)

Your serviceman should have checked your oil filters including the one in the pump when you had your first issue, then as the last poster rightly stated, checked you tank with water identification paste and arranged to have you have you problem addressed (afterall, why was he there!)
 
Yes, I agree with DGOBS, however, if you already have had water problems within you oil pump, this means the level of water has got to the level of the oil tank outlet, which is approx 5cm above the bottom of the tank. This will be a substantial amount of water within the tank, which will be too much for a waterhog and thus why I recommended pumping. Waterhogs are more for precaution.
Another tip is to slightly raise the tank outlet end of the tank so that the tank will be sloped away from the outlet. This will force any water to the back of the tank and away from the outlet. Not a solution, but it will help. All tanks should be fitted in this way anyhow.
 
Hi DGOBS, Many thanks to you (and Shane007) for your advice here. Apologies but I have not been on this site for a few months. I see you are based in Meath, would you be able to take a look at this issue for me?
 
Oil Tank

My oil tank is over 20 years old and is single skin and near to items mentioned. I suppose if I have to fit a new one it will have to be the double skinned one and it makes sense. How do I know when my old tank might be likely to split ?
 
you will know by tell tale signs such as around corners or joints the material will lighten in color where the plastic is under stress (think of the way an elastic band lightens in color when u stretch it)
 
flatfish said:
I suppose if I have to fit a new one it will have to be the double skinned one and it makes sense. How do I know when my old tank might be likely to split ?
Click to expand...

You will only require a bunded oil tank should the installation not meet the requirements/regulations, such as I previously stated on 03-11-10. The downside of bunded tanks is the expense. They are rather pricey, but cheaper than an oil spill clean up!

Signs of splitting are cracks, whitish stress marks particularly on edges/corners caused by uv light and also can be from insufficiently supported base. The amount of oil tanks sitting on just 2 rows of blocks is rampant. ALWAYS support the whole of the base of the tank with reinforced concrete lintels or similar.

Best advice is to get an OFTEC engineer to inspect the installation and advise accordingly. If your service engineer is OFTEC registered, this would be standard as part of your annual service.
 
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