Condensing boiler versus conventional comparisons

cathalcjb said:
Where would the boiler be purchased at that price, Heatmerchants or any of those places?
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I buy mine in Chadwicks. If you have any bother ordering at those prices, let me know and I will get the price fixed for you.

cathalcjb said:
I was quoted over 3k for fitting a condensing boiler last year, fitter suggested fitting a standard efficiency boiler instead - I was a bit dismayed. I didn't get the impression he'd e fitting all the bits you descrie. He didn't even use inhibitor after changing the rads, despite my request.
:(
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Fitting a standard efficiency boiler is actually against regulations unless you can prove that a condensing boiler cannot be installed. Economic reasons is not a valid reason. Not using a system inhibitor after every drain down and re-fill is just very bad practice.

cathalcjb said:
I think I'd need a 26k version. It's a boilerhouse model needs replacing. Existing one is very, very old (30-40 years) and runs on green diesel with asbestos flue to roof height. I've been draining the tank down to switch over to kerosene in anticipation of getting new boiler fitted.

Question: Is it pointless fitting a boiler like that to GB piping where there's no separate feed for heating water only? I can't handle the disruption to flooring, I replaced all the radiators last year, have TRVs and a wall stat.
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Condensing boilers can only be run on kerosene (28 sec oil). You should completely remove all diesel from the tank, wash out all traces of bacteria from within the tank and re-fill with kerosene. Your installer should be able to do this for you without any disruption. I done a new installation in Nenagh last week where the tank was 1/3 full with diesel and the local oil company came, sucked out the diesel, waited while we cleaned out the tank and re-filled with kerosene. They even credited the homeowner with the value of the diesel they removed. Great service.

There is nothing wrong with GB as long as it is in good condition. I have seen GB systems in place for over 50 years and no problems whatsoever. What I would do is give it a powerflush with no chemical or very little, spending longer on each radiator to flush. GB will create a lot more sludge in a system, but nothing that can't be dealt with. If you have a lot of leak stains on the pipework, then it could be time to replace the system. If not, then a good quality inhibitor should keep the system in reasonable condition. If you have already replaced the rads, then it should be fine.

cathalcjb said:
If you had any recommendation on people to supply and fit condensing oil boilers, please PM me.
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Where in the country are you located?
 
monagt said:
Did your central heating break down in the big freeze? Here's why...

The recent cold snap has revealed a major problem with 'condensing boilers' - they don't work in freezing weather.
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Absolute nonsense!

If a condensing boiler is installed correctly and as per manufacturer's instructions and as per regulation, a condensate overflow pipe will NOT freeze. All external pipework should be kept to a minimum and never exceed 3m in length and should be adequately insulated with external grade insulation that can withstand UV light. If it is not, then it is not installed as per regulation. How many of the boiler call outs in that article where installed as per regs?

With regard to condensing boilers being damaged by the acidity of the condensate, this is also nonsense. The parts of a condensing boiler that come into contact with acidic discharge are made from stainless steel and plastic. Installers who fit condensate pipework in copper, steel, etc. do not understand the implications of this and therefore should not be installing one without proper training, etc. Even if they read the manufacturer's installation manual that comes with every boiler, they will understand what needs to be done. I am installing, servicing and maintaining both non-condensing and condensing oil boilers on daily basis and when installed to code, a condensing boiler will far exceed a non-condensing one, in both performance, reliability and money savings.

I will agree that if a condensing boiler is not installed correctly and is not commissioned, the results can be far more detrimental than with a non-condensing boiler. They need to be set up correctly and maintained correctly. My Vortex is running at 99.1% nett efficiency (and I've yet to install one where I could not achieve 98.0%), it did not break down in the big freeze (-17°C) and it will continue to give me years of reliability and savings in oil.

On efficiency, a Vortex will have an average flue temperature of 45°C to 50°C whereas a standard efficiency boiler will have a flue temperature of 180°C to 400°C. This is a directly proportional to efficiency and a very good measure of how a boiler is performing, i.e. how good it is at transferring the heat from the flame chamber into the heating system. Poor, it has high temps, good has low. Less heat lost out the flue = more heat into the house and ultimately less fuel used.

Is Gas Junction OFTEC registered? Recommendation request is for an oil boiler!
 
+1 Shane

Coupled with the fact that installing non-condensing appliances is not to current building standards...ie.. illegal! and would cary no warranty either me tinks
 
OK Shane007,
Good 2 know. I was due to get a new boiler and put if off because of that article.

Is if cost effective to replace working boiler or better to wait until it breaks?

Is Vortex a good make?

Ooops GS is a Gas house afaik.

M:)
 
Shane007 said:
I buy mine in Chadwicks. If you have any bother ordering at those prices, let me know and I will get the price fixed for you.

Fitting a standard efficiency boiler is actually against regulations unless you can prove that a condensing boiler cannot be installed. Economic reasons is not a valid reason. Not using a system inhibitor after every drain down and re-fill is just very bad practice.

Condensing boilers can only be run on kerosene (28 sec oil). You should completely remove all diesel from the tank, wash out all traces of bacteria from within the tank and re-fill with kerosene. Your installer should be able to do this for you without any disruption. I done a new installation in Nenagh last week where the tank was 1/3 full with diesel and the local oil company came, sucked out the diesel, waited while we cleaned out the tank and re-filled with kerosene. They even credited the homeowner with the value of the diesel they removed. Great service.

There is nothing wrong with GB as long as it is in good condition. I have seen GB systems in place for over 50 years and no problems whatsoever. What I would do is give it a powerflush with no chemical or very little, spending longer on each radiator to flush. GB will create a lot more sludge in a system, but nothing that can't be dealt with. If you have a lot of leak stains on the pipework, then it could be time to replace the system. If not, then a good quality inhibitor should keep the system in reasonable condition. If you have already replaced the rads, then it should be fine.

Where in the country are you located?
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Yeah, I think the time has come to move on from my current boiler - the heat in the shed itself is shocking - can't be efficient. Tank of diesel is nearly drained now through burning off. So I might be able to remove the last of the diesel by tipping it over.

When you clean the tank, what do you use - power washer? Any detergent? It's a plastic tank and is there about 4 years now, I got an old metal tank replaced when I was moving in because its base was unsafe.

I'm in Dublin if you know of anyone who you would recommend.
 
cathalcjb said:
When you clean the tank, what do you use - power washer? Any detergent? It's a plastic tank and is there about 4 years now, I got an old metal tank replaced when I was moving in because its base was unsafe.

I'm in Dublin if you know of anyone who you would recommend.
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If the tank is only 4 years old, I would not think there is much bacteria in it. I use a mop to reach in and clean. Just ensure all the diesel is completely removed from the tank & the oil line.
 
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