Taping & Jointing Plasterboard - Yes or No

[Prosper]

Attached photo shows an alcove in a bedroom where a built-in wardrobe used to be. I've decided not put in another wardrobe and create an home office workspace with shelving and worktop. So I've put in the insulation between the studs and now I'm about to fix new plasterboard. Should I tape the joins and then cover these with jointing compound or could I just use caulk on the joins and then paint? I've looked at videos on YouTube and using jointing compound for the first time looks like it could be very difficult.

 

[SparkRite]

By far the best and easiest (IMHO) is to use scrim tape, at each and every joint, and skim plaster over that.

Proven for years and still extensively used.

 

[Leo]

Plasterboard is pretty cheap, you could buy a sheet or two, split them and practice jointing for small money. A little care in application of the jointing compound should mean minimal sanding required to get a good finish.

 

[Prosper]

By far the best and easiest (IMHO) is to use scrim tape, at each and every joint, and skim plaster over that.

Indeed, but then skim plastering for a DIYer like me is even more difficult than using jointing compound. Getting a plasterer in for such a small job would be difficult. However, I could use a very fine scrim tape and cover it with a fine filler, sand it back and then prime with a paint primer like Bulls Eye 123 before painting. Ahhh decisions, decisions.

 

[Jazz01]

skim plastering for a DIYer like me is even more difficult

Don't be frightened of it - getting the consistency of the skimming plaster is the toughest part. Something I did a while back after I removed some built in units in a room and I discovered that there was no plastering done on the walls. Do a bit of research, get the few tools that you need and give yourself time when doing it.

Bulls Eye 123

ain't cheap to buy.

 

[Prosper]

Thanks for the encouragement Jazz01. My house is a 1988 build and all the walls had been wallpapered. About 15 years ago I removed all the wallpaper and in many places the top layer of the plasterboard paper came away and in other places I had to resort to a razor blade to remove stubborn bits of wallpaper and also there were screw holes left after I removed shelving. Using a very fine filler on small bits where the grey plasterboard paper had come away, and thicker filler for the bigger gouges and holes worked well. It was very laborious (fill, sand, fill again, sand again, prime, prime again and then two or three topcoats of paint). You have to look very close to notice the filled/repaired bits and there's lots of them.
However, you've made me really think about skimming. I've always assumed plastering is not a job for the DIY'er, because once you start you have to work fast.

 

[Pinoy adventure]

Thanks for the encouragement Jazz01. My house is a 1988 build and all the walls had been wallpapered. About 15 years ago I removed all the wallpaper and in many places the top layer of the plasterboard paper came away and in other places I had to resort to a razor blade to remove stubborn bits of wallpaper and also there were screw holes left after I removed shelving. Using a very fine filler on small bits where the grey plasterboard paper had come away, and thicker filler for the bigger gouges and holes worked well. It was very laborious (fill, sand, fill again, sand again, prime, prime again and then two or three topcoats of paint). You have to look very close to notice the filled/repaired bits and there's lots of them.
However, you've made me really think about skimming. I've always assumed plastering is not a job for the DIY'er, because once you start you have to work fast.

I'm just about too remove the wall paper in the hall,stairs & landing but I'm dreading the thoughts of the plasterwork behind that I'll find.
I would go with filler over the joints in the plaster board,sand it down and paint over it

 

[Prosper]

Yes but the upside for you is that the wallpaper will peel away from the plaster much easier than from dryboard. I probably will go with filler rather than skim coat but I'm tempted to try the skimcoat and see if I can do it. If you find that getting the wallpaper off is very difficult, then you could stick good quality lining paper up (hang it horizontally rather than vertically) and paint on that.

 

[Leo]

because once you start you have to work fast.

You have a small section to do, shouldn't be a problem. It'll take you longer than a pro, so I little spray bottle filled with water you can use to mist the surface will buy you a little extra time to get a smooth finish.

 

[Prosper]

Thanks Leo. Two questions: Skim with jointing compound or with with plaster? If I decide to skim the alcove where the wardrobe used to be, do I also have to skim the two joining walls? I've attached photos of these walls. You can see the holes left by removed shelving that I'm not going to put back.

 

[Leo]

Plaster finish will be denser, so will take a little more abuse than just taping joints and painting.

They look in decent condition, so I'd just fill the holes. If you were to skim the adjoining walls with external corners, you'd need to apply bonding to give the plaster a key over the painted area, otherwise your plaster would just peel off. You'd also need to add beading to the corners and would probably end up having to redo most of the room.

 

[quadrangle]

Plaster is obviously a stronger, more hardwearing and more durable finish, but at current labour prices, that comes with a hefty price tag. 75% of the cost of internal plastering these days is the labour at current (Unofficial Celtic Tiger restoration) rates. The material costs roughly amount to 25%.

Therefore taping and jointing has become popular again. I know three houses where plasterboards where taping and jointing was done. One was done over 30 years ago (probably a new concept then). Another done 5 years ago and another done 13 years ago. All are perfect. Realistically you would need a lot of horseplay within a house to damage plasterboards. Wallpaper is a problem, but realistically nobody bothers much with wallpaper anymore.

Interestingly for the 5 year old job, they didn't dot and dab or stud the internal dividing walls, they simply fixed the plasterboard directly to the wall using anchor fixings, with minimal adhesive. It is the first time I have seen it done. However the walls were straight. I suppose it makes sense really as insulated plasterboards are fixed, so it is not unthinkable to fix plain plasterboards directly to masonry.

The plasterboards seemed to be a lot more durable when fixed directly on a block wall with no cavity behind it. Obviously the flip side to that is that the conduit and the back box for the sockets were partially chased into the wall. I think they may have levelled out any defects in the walls using a straight edge prior to fixing.

It was interesting