Hi all,
Currently building a house. I got planning in 2007 so don't need to get it energy rated but decided to use the Kingspan futureproof guide to insulation and am attempting to get something near an A3 rating by following their guidelines. Therfore the wall insulation specification for my house is 60mm Kooltherm in cavity and 49.5(40+9.5) kooltherm drylining.
However the drylining has just been completed and I've noticed that they have used metal plugs for all fixings with typically 12/15 of them in a standard 8x4 sheets and 3/4 in all window reveals!!!
I think I know the answer to this question but is the creating one giant cold briding problem on all my walls, is the dryling ineffective as a result or does it still offer some level of insulation, and is there anyway that I can fix this problem without ripping them all down!
Thank you in advance for any advice you can give,
Hi all,
Currently building a house. I got planning in 2007 so don't need to get it energy rated but decided to use the Kingspan futureproof guide to insulation and am attempting to get something near an A3 rating by following their guidelines. Therfore the wall insulation specification for my house is 60mm Kooltherm in cavity and 49.5(40+9.5) kooltherm drylining.
However the drylining has just been completed and I've noticed that they have used metal plugs for all fixings with typically 12/15 of them in a standard 8x4 sheets and 3/4 in all window reveals!!!
I think I know the answer to this question but is the creating one giant cold briding problem on all my walls, is the dryling ineffective as a result or does it still offer some level of insulation, and is there anyway that I can fix this problem without ripping them all down!
Thank you in advance for any advice you can give,
I think the drylining plugs are the least of your worries. The dry lining is fairly ineefectual as it is not continuous and is compromised by sockets and window reveals. Also kingspan overstate the performance of their boards, which die to wall ties and placement in cavities can perform at 0.75 u-value rather than the 0.22 stated. The biggest issue however is the heat loss at cold bridges such as rising walls. While you still can, i'd now compensate by over insulating the roof, using natural materials like cellulose and softboard along with airtightness measures. We've moved on a lot in the last 3 years from kingspan notion of future proof. PIR board is not dense or heavy enough to store heat. Secondly, placing slivers of insulation inside a cavity is dangerous as it can move the dew point inwards. But you'll find this out in 3 or 4 years. There's future proofing for you.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?