Oil Stoves - are they economical, efficient and provide a good heating supply?

itsalottery

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8
Hi,

I was considering buying a solid fuel stove but was nearly talked into buying a oil stove by supplier in Galway on the basis that it would suit my lifestyle as I dont have easy access to solid fuel and no storage facilities and also that oil is actually cheaper than solid fuels. Has anybody purchased a Nestor Martin recently its the Harmony model. If so are they economical and efficient and provide a good heating supply.
 
They are a very good oil stove. Oil stoves have vapourizing burners with a catalyst so make sure the installer is certified with OFTEC 102. There is a bit in setting them up and the oil supply pipe must be correctly installed. Ventilation, flue draught and flue terminal is critical.

Installed correctly they are a very nice unit and very good to heat one room. Very good to suit varying lifestyle, turn on, turn off, etc.
Running costs is obviously dependent on amount of usage, but generally about 1/3 to 1/2 tank of oil per annum.
 
Thanks Shane

The supplier has assured me that his technician will install and is an "expert" The "expert" is charging €400 so I have expectations of a good job. I am expecting also that the stove will heat more then 1 room. I think its a Harmony 5 model. I am putting it into a living room with double door off into a kitchen. Have I too many expectations. !!!!
 
"Expert" or not, just make sure he is OFTEC registered and certified with OFTEC 102 Oil Vapourizing Certification. You should also receive a Commissioning Certificate with check list on completion.
They can be very good at heating, so it may or may not heat an adjacent room, depending on room sizes.
 
Thanks Shane.

I went onto the OFTEC website and had a look at what you are talking about. I may even shop around as there are a number of OFTEC technicians in the area so I can see if I can get a better price for installation. The site identified the best value for money and oil is in there after coal and gas which is'ent bad all things taken into account.
Thanks again
 
Home energy

Hi Shane,


Thanks for previous advice. I installed the Nestor Martin oil stove and its the best investment I have done in recent year and it does exactly as it says on the tin
One question; I have noticed that recently it takes longer to ignite i.e from about 20 seconds to 30/35 seconds. The chap who installed it mentioned that I might need to raise the oil tank up a foot or make sure I had at least 3 ft of oil in the tank. Do you think this might be why the slower ignition. I have done the de-coking process.

itsalottery
 
The oil tank outlet must be minimum 300mm above the float valve! If it is level with the float valve, why did the "expert" install it outside of manufacturer's instructions?
Of course this could be the issue, except if the float valve is full, it will not affect the burner. The feed is not direct to the burner. The float valve is, I suppose you could call, another miniature oil tank/reservoir that feeds the burner.
The issue could be an issue with the kerosene supply, i.e the sulphur content. Speak to your supplier as some offer different grades that are more suitable for vapourizing burners.
Is there also a non-closable vent in the room?
Another check is the flue draught, is the flue termination point open to wind variations?
 
Hi there, we have had a harmony 5 (EFEL) 5kw small room heater in the sitting room for about 10 years now. We found it a bit troublesome for a number of years at the beginning, would not burn clean and calling out various professionals did not seem to get to the bottom of the problems. However, we finally figured out how to get the best from the unit and are so happy with it, I'm thinking of fitting a 2nd one in another part of the house that could do with the constant flow of silent, effortless, low-cost heat.
Here's the experience we have gained with this unit over the years:-
Apart from making sure that it's installed correctly, especially that the flue is lined properly, the main two things with getting these devices running really efficient & trouble free are:-
1. They need a good fuel flow, when the device is burning correct temp. you have little blue flames 'dancing' in the pot, even when the wind is howling there's no issue. When you starve it of fuel, e.g. when you turn it off, you see yellow flames & smoke as the unit goes out. If the unit is getting starved of fuel during normal operation (i.e. you haven't deliberately turned it off), it will begin to burn yellow flames. This is usually caused by some problem with fuel flow. 1st port of call would be to give the decoking lever a good pull & twisting action to move the gunk that can build up (a coal/coke like substance that is really hard to shift). using the de-coking lever is sometimes not enough and you should let the unit cool down fully and remove the bits inside in the pot carefully (if red/brown colour on the metal = good, if black / sooty = bad). The inside of the pot will need a good scraping out with a flat-head screwdriver, use a light & small mirror to see inside the pot, especially checking around the spot where the oil comes in for 'gunk' and the coal-like stuff you have to remove. have the vacuum cleaner on hand to remove the stuff you scrape out. lay out old newspapers around the stove & put on disposable gloves for the operation, you will get very dirty otherwise. Sounds like a lot of work, but I only need to do this operation a few times a season, at the start and 6-8 weeks into the winter. It's worth the effort as the unit will burn really clean after this and the glass will stay perfectly clean for weeks. The trick is to get the bottom of the pot very clean so the fuel can spread out evenly, that's how the vapor burns evenly up through the pot. if the fuel sits in one end of the pot, it won't burn correctly.
2. these units like to be left on 24x7, we don't turn the unit off unless we are going away for a weekend, so it will typically run for 6-8 weeks at a time non-stop from November to spring. Have a smoke detector in the room and make sure a fire-valve* was fitted (little cylinder with copper wire running to a probe).
Back in the early days we used to turn off the unit overnight, re-starting in the am, it would get clogged with the gunk very quickly. one of the guys we had out to look at it did say that they run better left on 24x7 and that is good advice, there's no trouble from the unit once it's cleaned and then just left to run.

*One little detail to check on the fire valve is to know when it's off or on. there is a little button on the unit, on ours in is on and out is off...kind of the opposite to what you would expect!

Hopefully that is some useful tips for you.
 
Good useful feedback from a user.

Another tip is if the unit goes out, do not turn it back on until it completely cools down. You could have an explosive ignition due to fuel vapour.
Ensure there is a permanent non-closable vent installed in the room sized to suit the output of the stove.
Install a carbon monoxide alarm in the room.
The fire valve must be of the remote acting type with a 90C shut off, not the normal 65C.
 
I have a Nestor Martin oil stove also, but struggle to keep the glass from going black with soot. It burn is blue once warmed up and up and running, any suggestions welcome
 
If you think an oil stove is your answer, you better not have a deep pocket, because it will cost you a small fortune. Ask any of the stove merchants and see what they are selling. I recently took out an oil stove from a property and installed a solid fuel stove due to the running costs. If you want to have oil heating in your home consider a high efficiency condensing oil boiler to heat your radiators.

fear peile
 
If you think an oil stove is your answer, you better not have a deep pocket, because it will cost you a small fortune. Ask any of the stove merchants and see what they are selling. I recently took out an oil stove from a property and installed a solid fuel stove due to the running costs.

I beg to differ! I know knows of them installed and they would only use about 1/2 a fill per 2 years. Lit most days over the winter.
Energy from solid fuel will depend upon the energy within that fuel & the moisture content. The bigger the output of the stove the more you have to feed it and solid fuel prices has gone up considerably also.
 
I have a Nestor Martin oil stove also, but struggle to keep the glass from going black with soot. It burn is blue once warmed up and up and running, any suggestions welcome

Did it always soot or only just start sooting?
Is there a sufficient permanently opened vent in the room?
Was it serviced recently?
 
I beg to differ! I know knows of them installed and they would only use about 1/2 a fill per 2 years. Lit most days over the winter.
.

Shane007,
What price was a litre of heating oil about 6 years ago ? What price is a litre of heating oil today and what price do you think a litre of heating oil will be in another 6 years ?
Any plumber or stove merchant worth his salt will tell the op the true running costs of an oil stove to maintain a 20c room temperture.
The op needs to find out the oil consumption per hour to maintain comfortable room temperture using a heating calculator.
http://www.plumbnation.co.uk/heating-calculator.php
In my opinion I would not recommend an oil stove unless the person was elderly with limited mobility, even then I would feel guilty with this and would first look at any alternatives that may be suitable to upgrade any existing system which is grant aided through the SEAI
[broken link removed]
 
Nestor Martin oil

I have a Nestor Martin Harmony 2 oil stove with back boiler - told it was suitable for up to 5 rads! I have not installed it yet but would like to know any other owners experience.
 
I was searching for comments on this stove.

I recently had one installed. Actually replaced an Waterford Stanley Oil Stove over 15 years old. I had an experience with the new one recently. I was away for a week and when I tried starting it up again, it went out. Rang the installer and her told me that the chimney was cold and to leave the door open slightly when starting to light it. Have you had any such experience? I now leave it on 24/7 except now when I am away for any period of time guess I will have to ignite it with door open and then close it when it lights up.He also says to turn the dial to the first setting to ignite it, which works. Any advice much appreciated.
 
I was searching for comments on this stove.

I recently had one installed. Actually replaced an Waterford Stanley Oil Stove over 15 years old. I had an experience with the new one recently. I was away for a week and when I tried starting it up again, it went out. Rang the installer and her told me that the chimney was cold and to leave the door open slightly when starting to light it. Have you had any such experience? I now leave it on 24/7 except now when I am away for any period of time guess I will have to ignite it with door open and then close it when it lights up.He also says to turn the dial to the first setting to ignite it, which works. Any advice much appreciated.

If the door has to be left open until the flue heats up then there is insufficient room ventilation until the flue heats up enough to induce more air to be drawn into the room for combustion.
Rather than opening the stove door, open a window fully & see does make a difference. It is does light with the window open, then this confirms it is a ventilation issue.
If it still won't light, it is a flue issue or a burner issue.
 
running costs

Hi,
I'm considering buying the Nestor Martin Harmony 5.
Can anyone make a reasonably accurate estimate of the running cost? the brochure says between 0.13 and 0.46 litres per hour.
I'd be interested to know if anyone who has the stove can back this up.
 
Hi,
I'm considering buying the Nestor Martin Harmony 5.
Can anyone make a reasonably accurate estimate of the running cost? the brochure says between 0.13 and 0.46 litres per hour.
I'd be interested to know if anyone who has the stove can back this up.

Those figures would be pretty much spot on.
0.13 litres would be on low fire & 0.46 litres would be on high fire.

By calculating the heat demand for the room it will be located in, you would then be able to average the actual usage/run time & output setting you will require.

Kerosene is approx 10kwh per litre, but that's at 100% efficiency.
 
Thanks Shane,
At that rate, the cost of leaving it on wouldn't be bad, though I would rather the option to switch it off when I want to.
It's for a kitchen, 56 cubic meters,average insulation and a bit draughty but we're working on that. According to guidelines 5KW should be enough.

By the way, where exactly is the float level?
 
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