You can get a roll of expandable tape nowadays which fits in at the start and starts expanding up in a few minutes. Haven't tried it but may be a solution.
We have coving at the top of our walls. Behind the coving they have left a gap between wall and ceiling of about 3 inches. I shudder to think of the amount of heat escaping through here and the skirting boards.
Same with the windows. The windows didn't quite fit so they filled the area with a foam type product in the gaps.
What's your concern with that out of interest? Mine were over concrete downstairs but over plywood floorboards upstairs, all OK.I think my bigger problem is the fitting of a thick engineered wood over the existing suspended floor.
What's your concern with that out of interest? Mine were over concrete downstairs but over plywood floorboards upstairs, all OK.
Correctness wise there's really no rocket science to it. When you're ordering the floor you'll be asked to order rolls of underlay. You roll out the underlay to cover the room then begin laying the wooden floor, gluing the tongue/groove joints. The floor will be 'floating', so all glued together as one big piece but it can expand/contract with the seasons so you need to leave ~1cm around the outside to allow for this. The 1cm gap will be hidden under your skirting board, architraves/door frames (you'll need to undercut these with a multitool to allow the wood slide under). Yes once it's down it's very difficult to take up without damaging it.
This where it is open to debate, the floor installers recommended not floating an engineered work floor but rather glue it and nail it. I think I am leaning towards floating a laminate and longer term lifting original floor boards, insulating and renovating the existing floor boards.
Cost perspective is where the insulation comes in, I am largely doing cosmetic renovations to make the house more liveable, and I don't want to put down an engineered wood floor only to find in 12 months we should have lifted the floorboards and insulated underneath etc. I believe once the floor is down it can't be lifted without damage. Thus I am considering just laying a laminate at a cost of ~4k vs ~8k for engineered and eating a potential lost 4k down the line when major renovations are done. The last concern on laminate is it would reduce the 'warmth' or always be cold vs the engineered floor.
Thanks for all the feedback. I think I have just landed on the quickest solution as we need to get into the house, I am taping up the gaps and laying plywood and underlay and the laminate on top.
We will be doing major renovations in a year or so and will think about it then.
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