If ye are really interested I could scan a few extracts from a book on here - moderator would need to show me how.
Its a Haynes maintenance manual for a Ford Fiesta. I used to do my routine servicing - e.g. oil & filter, examine air filter and replace if necessary, top up fluid levels, check wipers and replace blades if needs be (just the rubber strip is all that needs to be done, dont buy metal assembly unless existing one is bashed) examine tyres, check spark plugs - seem to last forever if get good platinum ones, inspect brake pads and shoes (and wheel cylinders) and replace if necessary, replacing discs. Checking fluid levels in battery (most new ones now sealed so not a problem and couldnt be fixed if one developed), check body underneath - especially around exhaust - for signs of corrosion. Also did valve clearances since have pushrod valve system- so the engine "purrs" smoothly and doesnt develop "tractorish" voice - these a bit outdated now, mostly overhead cams and/or hydraulic valve tappets so adjustment not an issue.
Most of the above is childs play - the nasty one is rear brake shoes in old drum brakes, all flippin awkward springs and even the dust cap is murder to remove as its half a sphere you're presented with so hard to grip or wedge out.
The manual gives servicing intervals and detailed step-by-steps on the above procedures. All specifically for a Ford F but the same general rules apply.
I'd recommend change oil every 6k, change filter every 2nd time. Air filter once a year maybe - and thats probably loads but costs nothing for the part anyway. Other stuff as needs be.
Stuff like bleeding the brake lines is good to do every 4 years maybe but wouldnt bother it unless someone who's knowledgeable with you as if leave air bubbles etc you could be left with spongy brake syndrome.
In everything its safety first, never get under a car thats just on a jack (jacks slip and move and you'd be squished. Better set up a wee permanent ramp if room, or get a set of good quality steel ramps made (explain what you want em for and get maker to stand over them), use axle stands - metal stands specifically to hold up the car after you've jacked it up.
Dont use concrete blocks or, if you do, make sure that are not cavity ones, lower jack down on to them (protect with bit of wood under the car) - i.e. dont leave the possibility of a slipping jack having the car smack down on the blocks - blocks ok on compression but not of impact (think karate chop guy).
On latest motor its under warrunty so not touching it but a pain in the ass to pay through nose for "nothing". Once out of warrunty I might get them to agee to update service record for me - i.e. I change oil myself, they stamp the doc so it appears I have a full service history - nothing underhand in the motivation on this - you either change the oil or you dont - no skill needed. Use engine flush now and again though.
p.s. if all the above sounds horribly complicated and jargon related then rest assured I knew SFA about cars till I did an evening course - a great idea, fierce interesting. However, in terms of the practical money saving tips, the detailed guidance in the manual would do you fine.
Maybe send me a message and I e-mail pages to you - not to totally take the p out of copyright of Haynes Manuals (which can be bought in many motor factors)