Thought I'd post this here a it may be of some use to D.I.Y.ers interested in panelling their interiors.
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First of all, set your heights.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dado_rail
900mm isthe norm, but hight dado's can give a very interesting effect and let you use double panels.
In an ordinary height room this may be overkill and look too "heavy".
Then do a scaled drawing of all elevations of your room including the doors and windows.
For a truly classical look you need to consider how the architraves, skirtings and the junctions/corner details of same are handles in timber.
The depths of classical archtraves can be 169-180mm and if you're serious about penelling, you might want to integrate the look of the door as well.
This can lead you to mirror the treatment and soon you'll be panelling the hall!
With the architraves, doors, skirtings all selected and balanced off each other, the left over wall under the dado rail is where you'll be panelling.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panelling
Panelling can be wainscoted or boiserie as shown above, or you might want the other classic look of raised and fielded panels in hte lins below
[broken link removed]
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frame_and_panel
Raised and fielded panels can be expensive and an affordable alternative is to use plant-on beads and rectangles to approximate the effect.
For a natural finish, both hard and softwood can be used ot good effect, but in paint a reasonable result can be acheived with mdf.
But although the fit can be perfect with plant ons or mdf, it looks "too perfect" for some, who like to see the character of the jointing and making of the panels.
Once you've decided on the option you want you're left with the matter of dividing up the panelling in a manner that pleases your eye.
Something that looks amazing on a Great House you once visited will not translate well, and it is the interior designer's skill to translate the proportions and apnel orientation to bet complement your particular room.
The large bay can be treated differently to the walls, but the important thing is to size teh panels and the left over spaces on such a way that they harmonize across the full width of the room and all walls.
That's harmonize, nor "mirror", so choose a panels size that's repeatable and don't be afraid of "making up" either a panel or the left-over space.
The same height and materials throughout will help all things to harmonize well.
Personally I don't like panels to be of a different colour to their surround, but that's just me.
------------------------
ONQ.
[broken link removed]
All advice on AAM is remote from the situation and cannot be relied upon as a defence or support - in and of itself - should legal action be taken.
Competent legal and building professionals should be asked to advise in Real Life with rights to inspect and issue reports on the matters at hand.
=========================
First of all, set your heights.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dado_rail
900mm isthe norm, but hight dado's can give a very interesting effect and let you use double panels.
In an ordinary height room this may be overkill and look too "heavy".
Then do a scaled drawing of all elevations of your room including the doors and windows.
For a truly classical look you need to consider how the architraves, skirtings and the junctions/corner details of same are handles in timber.
The depths of classical archtraves can be 169-180mm and if you're serious about penelling, you might want to integrate the look of the door as well.
This can lead you to mirror the treatment and soon you'll be panelling the hall!
With the architraves, doors, skirtings all selected and balanced off each other, the left over wall under the dado rail is where you'll be panelling.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panelling
Panelling can be wainscoted or boiserie as shown above, or you might want the other classic look of raised and fielded panels in hte lins below
[broken link removed]
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frame_and_panel
Raised and fielded panels can be expensive and an affordable alternative is to use plant-on beads and rectangles to approximate the effect.
For a natural finish, both hard and softwood can be used ot good effect, but in paint a reasonable result can be acheived with mdf.
But although the fit can be perfect with plant ons or mdf, it looks "too perfect" for some, who like to see the character of the jointing and making of the panels.
Once you've decided on the option you want you're left with the matter of dividing up the panelling in a manner that pleases your eye.
Something that looks amazing on a Great House you once visited will not translate well, and it is the interior designer's skill to translate the proportions and apnel orientation to bet complement your particular room.
The large bay can be treated differently to the walls, but the important thing is to size teh panels and the left over spaces on such a way that they harmonize across the full width of the room and all walls.
That's harmonize, nor "mirror", so choose a panels size that's repeatable and don't be afraid of "making up" either a panel or the left-over space.
The same height and materials throughout will help all things to harmonize well.
Personally I don't like panels to be of a different colour to their surround, but that's just me.
------------------------
ONQ.
[broken link removed]
All advice on AAM is remote from the situation and cannot be relied upon as a defence or support - in and of itself - should legal action be taken.
Competent legal and building professionals should be asked to advise in Real Life with rights to inspect and issue reports on the matters at hand.