Has Anyone Used Superquilt Multi Foil Insulation?

Lex Foutish

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Has anybody used the above? What exactly did you use it for, e.g., attic ceiling, walls, etc? Would you recommend it?
 
I run the website for Superquilt Europe , the product is designed to insulate roofs, walls and floors. It's main use is Roofs. It can be used over rafter or under rafter. There are Data sheets showing how to fit it, a comparison data sheet with other multi-foils and an online video showing you how to fit it. You'll find this information at Ecohome-insulation.com if you are in Europe the information is on Superquilt is the highest thermal resistant multi-foil. Any technical question feel free to contact me. You'll find lots of other user comments on Google feedback where we have a 5 star rating. Hope this helps?
 
Thank you, Superquilt. An assessor called to me recently and recommended it as a good option for my converted attic ceiling. It's a plasterboard ceiling with a pathetic amount of insulation above it. I'm going to have to take it down and do it properly. I'm thinking of putting up Superquilt and then putting on 25mm battens, as recommended in the video clip, and then putting on the plasterboard.

I presume I could put rigid board insulation between it and the ceiling and have even greater heat retention. If I did that, should I leave a space between the board and the Superquilt? (I'm assuming I shouldn't).

I visited your website last night. I will definitely be in touch again.

I'm in Ireland, by the way, and this is an Irish website.

Thanks again.

Lex.
 
This site gives detailed instructions as to how Superquilt should be used.

It looks like a great job. Has anyone here used it..............?
 
Has this product received an Agrement Certificate yet? Another previous, if somewhat dated thread here.
Leo

Thanks for taking the time to post that, Leo. Very interesting!

I spoke to a guy over the weekend who has used something very similar in quite a few attics and he swears by it. He strongly recommended it. I'll let you know what I did when the job has been done.
 
Down at the wall plate you seal Superquilt with 75mm foil joining tape.(Use a genuine foil tape not a polymer based tape) It's important Superquilt is sealed both accross the joints and round the edges to provide a continual blanket. Joints should be overlaped by 75mm. Leo, Superquilt has the BDA certification for Europe. There is also a comparison data sheet available against most other mult-foils in the world. Whilst I live in Sheffield in the UK i speak to Roofers, builders and DIY customers in Ireland most days providing advice about Superquilt. I visit Ireland quite a lot too.(More pleasure than business) If anyone requires any advice, information sheets or samples of Superquilt contact me anytime. Regards, Mark
 
Hi Lex, You can put rigid board between the rafters first. You should however have 25mm airgap before the Superquilt - this is important for maximimum performance. You can actually put a layer of superquilt between the rafters, leave an Air Gap and then staple a layer at the bottom of the rafter. It really depends if its for building control regulation or simply to increase your insulation - one layer is more than adequate for most projects. It's also important to leave a 25mm Air gap betwwen the Superquilt and the plasterboard (Assuming you want to plasterboard - you dont have to if it's just for storage space - but the extra gap between the Superquilt and the plasterboard will of course increase performance) Contact me anytime for information, thanks Mark
 
Just after superquilting the roof from the inside. Its paying for itself as I can feel the house holding the heat. The carpenters stapled the quilt to the wrafters, then battoned 2x1s on top and then the plaster slabs was screwed onto the battons. All joints were sealed with ybs foil tape. Slabs were then plastered. Top job.
 
Hi Mark,

I hope to insulate my new build in the next couple of weeks, as i'm planning to be as airtight as i can build what can you recommend what i should use with your product to achieve this. All info badly needed.
 
Hi Superquilt,I've just had a guy into me about insulation as I'm retrofitting insulation to two dormer rooms in a converted attic. On my sloped internal ceilings I have conventional plaster board with about 100mm of fiberglass between it and the inside felt.BER certification suggests that I have at least 270mm of fiber glass on these slopes to retain heat in the rooms below. However this will result in bad air circulation which I do not want. Is it possible to put superquilt directly on top of the existing plaster board, then use the recommended 25mm battons on top of this and then 25mm thermal plaster board on top of this? Otherwise I'm looking at cutting out the existing sloped plaster board (this is a not a route I wish to take!)Any info on this type of setup would be greatly appreciated i.e. do I need a gap on between the superquilt and the existing plaster board on the internal sloped roof or can I place it directly on top of it?
 
Stay well away from these "miracle" products and carpet bagger salesmen, there are many products out there and to my knowledge not a single solitary one of them has performed under stringent hot box laboratory testing which is why THEY ARE NOT ACCREDITED, but make outlandish claims.
One of the most poular products on the market is this : Tri Iso 10

Multi Layer Foil Insulation Products

Don’t believe the sales hype: this ‘space age’ technology is not all it’s cracked up to be…..


Tri-Iso Super 10 is the name given to a multi-layer foil based insulation product produced by the French company Actis.

Super 10 is the latest in a line of multi-layer foil products produced by Actis. Although it is only about 30mm thick, Actis claim that tests have shown that it has the same insulation value as much greater depths of mineral wool. This has lead to great interest from within the building sector. Super 10 is more user-friendly than mineral wool and its lesser bulk means it can be deployed much more easily in confined spaces.

Although mineral wool (more commonly known in Ireland by its brand name Rockwool) has something of a reputation for being the poor man’s insulation, there are few products on the market which have been proven to achieve an equivalent thermal resistance (the ‘R’ value) with a significantly less depth of material. Any new product capable of achieving the same thermal resistance with only one sixth the depth of material would revolutionise the building industry.

Actis’s claims, however, appear to defy the laws of physics. Although Tri-Iso Super 10 is credited with being able to efficiently reflect back radiant heat losses, most heat losses from buildings occur as a result of convection or conduction.

Independent Tests and Research

A number of individuals working in the sustainable building sector were not convinced that the full story was being told by Actis and decided to carry out their own small scale tests. Although far from conclusive, the results suggested that the multi-layer foil insulation might not be the miracle product the manufacturers claim .

Then in July 2005, the Building Research Establishment (BRE) in the UK investigated two buildings in Scotland which had been fitted with Tri Iso Super 9, the predecessor to Super 10. The results of the study² indicated that the thermal resistance of the Super 9 was about 1.71 m²K/W. Actis had claimed a figure almost three times asgreat. The research carried out by BRE was funded by the ODPM (Office of the Deputy Prime Minister).

The BRE findings have some serious implications. Anyone assuming that a building insulated with Tri-Iso Super 10 (or other similar product) will be compliant with building regulations is likely to be disappointed. The architects who specify such products and the building engineers who sign off houses insulated with them may be leaving themselves open to litigation from clients who will understandably be very angry that their new home is not insulated to the required standard.
 
Looking to use one of the above named products on a section of external wall under the plaster board. There will be no air gap and it will be compressed into the wall. If ye are wondering why im considering it it is becauce if I go with the insulated plaster board there will be a 40mm step when you pass into the hall where the external wall ends.....is it useable or workable in this instance? I have 150mm umped cavity as well
 
Really? No contribution to u value at all....if i go with the Board it will be stepped out and look kack!
 
As I understand it, you intend to compress the multifoil to keep the thickness to a minimum. I am doubtful of the effectiveness of multifoils in general but I think any benefit they may have would be virtually eliminated by compressing the layers into a small space.
 
Like 3CC, I cant see any benefit in this instance. Could ye not go with the insulated plasterboard and then taper it off as you go to internal wall rather than leaving a step?
 
... I'm retrofitting insulation to two dormer rooms in a converted attic. ....Is it possible to put superquilt directly on top of the existing plaster board, then use the recommended 25mm battons on top of this and then 25mm thermal plaster board on top of this? Otherwise I'm looking at cutting out the existing sloped plaster board (this is a not a route I wish to take!)Any info on this type of setup would be greatly appreciated i.e. do I need a gap on between the superquilt and the existing plaster board on the internal sloped roof or can I place it directly on top of it?

Can anyone answer this question or offer any advice? Have a similar problem. Thank you!
 
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