Engine cut-outs

S

Sambo

Registered User
Messages
47
Hey,

Can anybody offer and advice as to why my car is continually cutting out when I brake? Basically when I apply the brake, irrespective of which gear I am in, once the "Rev-counter" drops to 800 RPM the car cuts-out.

Ergo when I am changing down gear's I have to let the clutch out to it's fullest extent or else the needle drops below the 800 this includes when I brake, I have to let the clutch all the way out until I am at a near stand still or else when I apply the brake and clutch = cut out (I am not suggesting that I coast continually, but normal driving means that you will coast in and out of gears from time to time)

This is leaving me with no power steering or any steering for that matter :eek:. PS fails when the engine is out!!!!

Any suggestions?

PS: MK III VW Golf - Not sure if they have indemic problems!!

Thx
 
MMM I have had MK2 and 3 Golfs...sounds like a couple of things possibly an ISV problem mainly, thats just a geuss. ISV controls yur revs and idle which by the sounds of its an idle problem. U need to clean ISV.
But you should contact your mecaniac asap as it sounds abit dodge especially in an emergancy stop.
 
Plus when you lose engine power you lose servo assisted braking after 1 or 2 pumps of the brake pedal!! the pedal will get harder to press down on,
if this happens at speed to be safe let out the clutch slowly and the engine will turn and the brakes will work again briefly.
very dangerous, get it sorted sooner than later.
 
Lads,

Thanks for the advice will get it sorted ASAP. At the risk of sounding retarded Corco what is ISV?
 
I had the same problem with a mk 3 golf.

The butteryfly valve was clogged. Cost about € 50 for a garage to clean it.
 
Idle Stabilization Valve (ISV).You can check out website from google
9a_1_b.JPG


on where to find it and how to clean. ''Remove them from the car and soak in petrol or carb/injector cleaner before rinsing, drying and refitting. Check also the pipes to and from the valve for air leaks as these can also cause idle problems. ''Takes 10 mins to do and shouldn't cost any where near €50 to get done.
Thats if the problem is ISV!!Just my geuss but now harm in giving it a go and see if there is any difference.Best of luck.
 
Corco

Sound man thanks for the advice, I will give it a shot and see what the story is............

Rgds

Sambo
 
Some info on the MK III GOLF it may be helpful if not informative.

Good Luck ;)


What's Good

Strong image. High residuals. Best engines are 90bhp TDI, 150bhp 2.0 16v and 174bhp 2.8 VR6 engines. Also 100 bhp 1.6 fitted to last Golf GLs. Now 13' 2" long and 5' 7" wide. Weighs from 1,000kg to 1,155kg. Cheap parts from: www.gsfcarparts.com ; www.eurocarparts.com VWs generally had below average [broken link removed] repair costs in 2003 Warranty Direct Reliability index (index 76.83 v/s lowest 31.93). Link:- www.reliabilityindex.co.uk 1995-1997 petrol models had fewest problems, average for breakdowns and faults; 1995-1997 diesels average for breakdowns, problems and faults in 2003 Which survey.

[broken link removed]

What's Bad

Strong image not completely justified. Three-door models flex quite badly (five-door models are better). Handling and roadholding not brilliant by 90s standards. 4-speed autobox can have problems, Since VW dealers charge £4,000 for a new one, this is best sorted by an independent specialist. Often no more than an oil control valve. Though car may remain solid and rust-free, many [broken link removed] will be needed over 10-year life. Complaints of rust under joint in sealing strip on sill under rear doors. More than its fair share of recalls. Power loss on TDI 90s over 3,000rpm can be cured by replacing a thin hose that runs from the exhaust, near the turbo, to the ECU. Cutting out on 1996 - 1998 petrol and diesel Passats and Golfs may be due to relay marked "109" in the fuseboard. The heat from the relay coil may be causing small cracks to open on the relay printed cicuit board. Plug-in replacement costs about £12.

What to Watch Out For

Premature clutch wear due to faulty self-adjusting cable. Oil-burning TDI engines. Clocking. See Mk II. Also reports of wiring faults developing in electric window circuits, lights, rear window demister, so check all electrics carefully before buying (see recalls). Problems emerging of stretched timing chains on VR6s and chains actually breaking at around 90,000 miles. On 5-door models, look for rust on the hinge face of the rear door frames. Rear end skittishness is caused by failure of rear axle bushes which cost £12.75 a side from German & Swedish www.gsfcarparts.com. Brake regulator needs to be removed to fit and the bolts always shear off so need to be obtained separately from a VW dealer. Look for rust holes under joint in sealing strip on sills under rear doors. Also look for rust around the hinge areas of the doors.

Recalls

1995 (Golf GTi, 16v, VR6, Convertible: VIN 1HPW 439315 to 1HSW 418237 and 1ERK 000001 to 1ESK 025159): headlamp failures. Headlight switch on RHD models can overheat, leading to headlight failure. 28,000 cars affected. 1996: (1993-95 build): cooling fan motor may seize. 1997 (single headlight models). January 1997 recall for headlight failure. Headlight switch on RHD models can overheat, leading to headlight failure. 9,700 cars affected. 1997 (1994-97 build): September 1997 recall for headlamp modification for all cars. Total 150,000 cars affected. 1997 (1991-94 models with electric front windows: 16,000 cars): insulation on power cable may chafe and short-circuit. Needs protective shield in cable opening of door. 1997 (Aug '93-Jan '97 build): engine wiring loom may overheat.
 
Dobber, you may want to note that HonestJohn doesn't like people posting his material without prior written consent. This is against AAM rules as well.
 
Leo said:
Dobber, you may want to note that HonestJohn doesn't like people posting his material without prior written consent. This is against AAM rules as well.
Click to expand...

Leo, noted.
 
Had the very same problem on a 97 Passat 1.6 Petrol. I had the throttle body cleaned out and no problems since. Spoke to a mechanic afterwards and before I could tell him the solution he said - 'dirt in throttle body' - seems to be common in VWs
 
Ted,

Did you bring it to a VW dealer or just your local mechanic? How much did it cost?

Cheers

S
 
local mechanic - €25 - remove the throttle body and clean out the main bore using thinners etc. you need to open the throttle flap and clean around the edges as this restricts the airflow and causes cutting out etc
 
Have the same problem, mine is fiesta 97. Dont know is it a fault in the model though? Anyone experience it with a fiesta
 
Lads, had the throttle body cleaned out by the mechanic working on replacing my shocks and it seems to have solved the problem, so thanks for the advice.

Sarah, I haven't a clue but reading this thread you can at least have an idea of what the problem is when you go to a local mechanic!!

Good Luck!

Sambo
 
Sarah,
had the same issue with a '98 Fiesta, and within a couple of month of my problems (in 2000) so did 3 colleagues also driving 1998 fords (2 x Fiesta and 1 x Ka).
I got rid of my fiesta soon afterwards, it was the start of a series of problems.
 
hey Sambo - just see you got your shocks replaced - need to get a rear shock done on my passat - how much did it cost you
 
Ted,

Spot on for the throttle body advice - thanks for that. Had to get specialist shocks cos of alloy size so it cost me €130 per shock. Usual oil shocks are about €60 for front and €50 for rear (each) if they are Monroe, Koni etc, spurios or asian sourced shocks would probably be cheaper again.

Get them priced but advance pit-stop are probably the best and cheapest, you can call them over the phone and give them the engine size year and model and they will give you a price. Also try Fast-Fit and Ace Exhaust. AVPS, will do the one shock and the camber adjustment (although I don't think that applies for rear-shocks) if needed for €70-€80 I would guess!!

Sambo
 
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